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38 Special

5.9, Trad, 225 ft (68 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2 from 2 votes
FA: Jonathan Garlough & Lincoln Tetherly
New Hampshire > WM: Kancamagus… > Captain

Description

The route begins 50' right of Lunar Illusions. Start just right of the obvious tree ledge growing up the cliff. All bolts were placed free on the lead by hand.

P1: Follow a right angling seam past a pocket and continue on good holds up the low angle slab to an overlap. Follow the shallow right facing corner/flake systems placing gear until it is possible to work left and gain a bolt anchor. 115' 5.9

P2: Climb straight up off the anchor passing two bolts to another flake. Move right out of the flake to a stance (bolt) and then run it out on easy slab to the trees with a fixed anchor above. 110' 5.9

A double rope rap gets you close to the ground but a bit short.

Location

50' right of Lunar Illusions

Protection

Standard rack, 3 bolts, 1 bolt anchor, 1 tree anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Amy topping out
[Hide Photo] Amy topping out
Moving up to the belay ledge on P1
[Hide Photo] Moving up to the belay ledge on P1
Looking down P1
[Hide Photo] Looking down P1

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

john strand
southern colo
[Hide Comment] I thought you guys were .40 types ? Oct 22, 2014