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The Inverted Englishman

5.8-, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 23 votes
FA: State Brook Team
New York > Adirondacks > H: Southern Mou… > State Brook

Description

Nice crack climbing. Stupid tree. Work up the obvious crack with good jams to a stupid tree growing out of the crack. Either traverse right a few feet and face climb, or make a big move reaching past the tree to better jams. You will be immediately stuck by lightning if you use the tree for upward progress. Both paths lead to a stance below a wide flared crack. Protect (optional big cam) and jam up to jugs and a good ledge. Continue straight up to high anchors.

It is also possible to traverse left to the anchors of Bowline With A Blowjob Finish.

Location

A little right of where the approach trail meets the cliff. A small evergreen tree is growing out of the crack 40' off the deck. Left of a depression with opposing corners.

Protection

Singles to 3". A larger cam could be used but isn't a requirement. Bolt anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Alise making the big reach over the poorly placed tree; who even set this route?
[Hide Photo] Alise making the big reach over the poorly placed tree; who even set this route?
The bottom 2/3 of the route
[Hide Photo] The bottom 2/3 of the route
Alise just past the tree
[Hide Photo] Alise just past the tree
Serge Lossa on Hollie's High Step (left) and Carroll W. on Inverted Englishmen below the tree (right)
[Hide Photo] Serge Lossa on Hollie's High Step (left) and Carroll W. on Inverted Englishmen below the tree (right)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I was able to get a very good #1 Camalot in the crack above the crux overhang. I had a big (4") cam on me but really couldn't see that being the best piece for that move.

No problem passing the tree. I did sling it though.

Nicest route we did on the cliff today IMO. Jul 13, 2015
[Hide Comment] Fun route. Was not struck by lightening Aug 25, 2015