To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments
so you only print what you need.
The Inverted Englishman
5.8-,
Trad, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 2.6 from 23
votes
FA: State Brook Team
New York
> Adirondacks
> H: Southern Mou…
> State Brook
Description
Nice crack climbing. Stupid tree. Work up the obvious crack with good jams to a stupid tree growing out of the crack. Either traverse right a few feet and face climb, or make a big move reaching past the tree to better jams. You will be immediately stuck by lightning if you use the tree for upward progress. Both paths lead to a stance below a wide flared crack. Protect (optional big cam) and jam up to jugs and a good ledge. Continue straight up to high anchors.
It is also possible to traverse left to the anchors of Bowline With A Blowjob Finish.
Location
A little right of where the approach trail meets the cliff. A small evergreen tree is growing out of the crack 40' off the deck. Left of a depression with opposing corners.
Protection
Singles to 3". A larger cam could be used but isn't a requirement. Bolt anchors.
[Hide Photo] Alise making the big reach over the poorly placed tree; who even set this route?
[Hide Photo] The bottom 2/3 of the route
[Hide Photo] Alise just past the tree
[Hide Photo] Serge Lossa on Hollie's High Step (left) and Carroll W. on Inverted Englishmen below the tree (right)
No problem passing the tree. I did sling it though.
Nicest route we did on the cliff today IMO. Jul 13, 2015