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G-string Divas

5.10+, Trad, 85 ft (26 m),  Avg: 3.6 from 9 votes
FA: John Varco and Klaus Schock
Utah > Southwest Utah > Zion NP > Mt Carmel Tunnel > Cragmont
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

Beautiful splitter offwidth. Small roof about 1/2 way up and a R facing corner/roof with a mixed size crack at the very top. It's mostly fist and big fist. Bullet rock throughout the whole think. A must do for wide lovers!

- The anchor is a big modern bolt and a small nut that's been hammered into a thin crack. As of 10/14 there was good webbing connecting the two and 2 rap rings on the end.

- Lower off with a 60m rope

Location

First route to the right of "Remnants of a Party". When the trail hits the wall go right. It's about 80 ft. around the corner/arete from ROAP. From the trail you can easily spot it a couple minutes before the trail meets the wall. It's hard to miss.

Protection

Everything in Camalots. 4 or 5 new #4's, and for the top 1 each: #3, #2 with a long sling, and a .4 or .5. The #2 is optional. 90% of the route wants a new #4. At the very start you can smash in a new #5 and you can place one about 2/3 of the way up in a spot where the crack varies a bit but #4's are better throughout.

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G-String Divas
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Wylie
Bishop, CA
  5.10
[Hide Comment] I can't remember the FA names except Varco. The clean and free book has them but I don't own it. Oct 17, 2014
Shaun Johnson
Pocatello, ID
[Hide Comment] FA: John Varco and Klaus Schock. Feb 21, 2021
Mr FlashYourProj
Bozeman, MT
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] This thing is awesome! Physical 5.10 the whole way. Felt harder than Kung Fu Fighter (11-) but maybe that's just me. Apr 28, 2022