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A Little More Masochism

5.10+, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 26 votes
FA: Ray Lovestead
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Selfish Wall
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

Right of the ooze, Offwidth. #4 to 5 to 6 to 5 camalots. Short but good OW practice

Protection

#4, (2)#5, (2)#6, #4big bro and then #3 big bro to protect the move onto the top. Can easily march up your #5s and #6s. Hand stacks until your knee fits (good rest), then armbar and chickenwings with footstacks to your hearts content. You can walk 4-5-6-5 fine or take extras.

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A Little More Masochism
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Ray Lovestead
Boulder, CO
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] Oh and sorry about the shit job with my first attempt on the first anchor bolt. I f&*^'d up the bolt and had to pull it and make a new hole. Dec 1, 2015
Mark Thomas
Broomfield, CO
 
[Hide Comment] The top section above the triangular pod seems to require #4 Big Bros or (better) a VG 9.

I didn't have these and didn't like the runout potential, so I managed to tunnel through to the anchor through the pod. If you choose to do this, tie your knot in long, trail your rack and helmet and be ready for some tough squeeze chimney route finding and climbing! Claustrophobics need not apply as you can't take full breaths for a while. Sidewinder technique helps. Clearly this option hasn't been done much as I kicked a lot of rocks out while doing this!

You can always go inside to move a #6 C4 up high before stepping back out for the finish as well. Nov 4, 2019