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Routes in East Gruesome

East Gruesome T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
East Gruesome (Laptad Route) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tying the Knot T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: Trad
FA: October 1979, Paul Muehl, David Emery, Dick Laptad, Julie McFarland
Page Views: 348 total, 9/month
Shared By: Brandon Emery on Oct 14, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Scramble up some flakes and blocks to a point about 10 ft to the left of the start of route 1. The route starts here, work your way up a water chute thats about 30 ft in length, then make a long step to East Gruesome. Follow an obvious crack system to the summit from there.

East Gruesome has been called by Bob Kamps "The finest summit that the Conn's achieved. They pioneered an intricate and difficult route up the three hundred foot east face." In Bob's guidebook he chose not to describe the route, as to leave it a surprise for those who choose to climb it. I ask that you all would do the same as well.

Location

The route is located 10 ft to the left of Route 1, which starts in the southeast corner of the spire four five gulley.

Protection

Standard trad rack for climbing in the spires. Bring extra slings as always!

Photos

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