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Brainiac

5.12a, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 4 votes
FA: Brian Shelton, Stewart Green, Dennis Jump. May 15, 2010.
Utah > Southeast Utah > Arches NP > Sunshine Wall > Sunshine Wall Routes
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

More slab climbing! Do some easy slabbin' to the first bolt and do a tricky mantel to reach the second. The crux comes just past this with a very thin move with terrible feet to reach some small edges. A taller climber might have a significantly easier time on this section that someone of average height. Beyond the third bolt the climbing eases up, continuing at 5.10 past seven more bolts. Anchors are two bolts currently equipped with a quicklink and a carabiner.

Location

Brainiac is the right-most route of the Sunshine Wall slabs, roughly 100 m climbers right of the Science Friction Slab. Just right of Walking on Sunshine.

Protection

Ten draws

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] FA by Brian Shelton, Stewart Green, and Dennis Jump. May 15, 2010. Mar 31, 2015