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Routes in Palmer Gulch

Keelhaul T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Mr. November Too T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. October Also T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spicy Thai Tuna T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Yak Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 590 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Mike McNeil and John Hinrichs
Page Views: 504 total, 13/month
Shared By: Mike McNeil on Oct 13, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Start the same as Mr. November, but instead of heading left about 100 ft up just go straight up the crack until the end of the rope about 180ft total 5.6. You can go farther up the dihedral for about 30ft. and then traverse left around the corner continue traversing about 100ft to the left on a nice crack for about 50ft and then heading up and left placing some small cams straight up into a horizontal roof crack for protection. Then continue to the left and pull the offwidth crack roof and continue up the crack for 40ft for about 170ft total 5.7+. Continue up the face and easy wide cracks for about 170ft total 5.6. Pull a hard move protected by a tightly placed #4 camalot for about a 10ft and then another 30ft above that boulder problem then traverse left for about 30 more feet about 70ft total 5.7.

Location

Starts the same as Mr. November and then goes right about 100ft up. It starts off a large boulder 450 ft right of the Harney Flow ice route.

Protection

Double rack to a 4 and a 5 and a 6 should be adequate. Take may long slings. Rapped 120ft off the ridge off a arch thread. Walk east and then down the gully that leads to the Harney Ice waterfall and rappel of the anchor.

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