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Routes in 64th Birthday Area on SE face of Punk Rock

Baby Bear T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Mama Bear S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Papa Bear TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Smokin' Or What? T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: Mark Fletcher
Page Views: 149 total, 4/month
Shared By: Mark Fletcher on Oct 13, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is an all trad climb that goes up a dihedral/gully past a small pine tree to a vegetated ledge. Then it goes up a face to another vegetated gully to the money part of the climb. The money part involves perfect but easy lieback moves that protect well throughout to another small ledge. Then you do the crux moves up a face with pulling on a hold to the left to a big ledge. You need to walk/climb about 30 to 40 back on the ledge to find good anchor placements. Don't be fooled by the vegetated lower parts as the lieback moves up higher are really good.

Location

This route is about 75-100' right of "Baby Bear" on the left side of the east face of Punk Dome. It starts at a block that has a distinct 3" to 6" crack running through it with a very small juniper tree nearby. The coordinates are N 37.08134 and W 118.95726. To get down you must do 3rd and 4th class down climbing on ledges to the climber's right to reach the bolted rappel chains for "Baby Bear" and the other climbs.

Protection

You will need Camalot type cams from 1.0 through 4.0 (4.0 helpful at the crux), a set of Alien-type cams from 0.30" to 2". Bring some long slings as the route moves around a bit.

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