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Routes in Tralfamadore Wall

22 Bottles of Queer on the Wall T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beautiful Day T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hop Knot T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost Highway T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shield, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Studio 54 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tralfamadore T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: D.Mabe
Page Views: 1,198 total, 31/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Oct 13, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Named after my current favorite beer at the local Mother Road Brewery, Lost Highway imperial black IPA. Much like stretches of Route 66 of which this beer is dedicated to, how did a route this good get lost in time?

While borrowing about 15ft of hand crack from its neighbor, Beautiful Day, Lost Highway climbs on and near the striking arete feature finishing with a steep and exposed headwall.

Begin with a bouldery start on a flake above a nice belay ledge followed by splitter fingers with jugs (dreamy) to connect with the arete. Stay on the arete for a few more moves and up to a horizontal and step over to the left-facing dihedral handcrack of BD . Take a #3 Cam for a cruise with a double-length runner (5.8) and up to a roof. Beautiful Day escapes right. Lost Highway makes an airy step around the arete (5.10) to join the pumpy headwall. Use caution around some chockstones, that can mostly be avoided with face holds. Finish with a rather splitter crack to the rim.

Destined to be a mega-classic for the grade and area.

Location

LH is located climbers left of Beautiful Day

Protection

Belay anchor consists of .3-.75C4 sized crack.
Rack: a few med stoppers, a couple of micro-cams, (1-2)#.3-#2C4, and (1)#3C4 will give you plenty of options. Several runners.
48 inch sling on any pro in the hand crack would not be a bad idea. It was manageable with a shoulder length on a single piece about half way up the hand crack. My first route at Volunteer and it was a great introduction. Nice find Darren. Sep 28, 2015
JMo
Tucson, AZ
 
JMo   Tucson, AZ
 
Here, there, or anywhere, this climb gets all the stars. Walk the 3 and sling anything you leave in the right crack super long or add two letter grades and four letter words. Sep 21, 2015