Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: D.Mabe
Page Views: 1,021 total · 17/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Oct 13, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Lady Bertilak was used as a tool of seduction to test Sir Gawain's purity and strength (wiki). This long left-trending crack system may test your stamina as it progressively gets more difficult until an overhanging crux near the top.

First half is a good warm up. Start with a wide chockstoned crack above a bush on a good ledge and step into a stunning black/orange stembox (5.9). Continue in a left facing dihedral with nice hand crack to a stance rest (5.7). A bit of suspect rock lies above as the finger-crack system steadily leans to the left (5.10) The crack thins as you negotiate some exposed moves up to and over the steep bulge(5.11+). Heroic climbing and long pitch!

Location

Locate the downed tree on the rim near the center of the north side. Past the west end of the tree is the top of Bertilak. A tall leaning dead tree (possibly on the ground by now, see beta photo) is also a great landmark. Aim the rappel towards the east of the top of the route (almost in the gully between it and Edge of an Age), to be directly over the belay ledge, as the route steadily leans left.

Protection

A good top anchor consists of a #3 and #3.5 camalot or equivalent, and the belay takes small gear such as micro cam and small nut.

Bertilak rack: micro cams, stoppers, (2-3)#.3-#.75C4, (2)#1-#2C4, and (1)#3C4. lots of runners for the first half. Helmets recommended as there are a couple short sections of suspect rock, trad lightly.

Photos