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Routes in The Middle Ages

Arbalest T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bertilak T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Book of Wasps T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Edge of an Age T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gnarnian Renaissance T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Green Knight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Guy in the Gulley T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Morning Star T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trebuchet T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Turn the Page T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Handed Flail T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
White Hawk T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: D.Mabe
Page Views: 771 total, 20/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Oct 13, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Lady Bertilak was used as a tool of seduction to test Sir Gawain's purity and strength (wiki). This long left-trending crack system may test your stamina as it progressively gets more difficult until an overhanging crux near the top.

First half is a good warm up. Start with a wide chockstoned crack above a bush on a good ledge and step into a stunning black/orange stembox (5.9). Continue in a left facing dihedral with nice hand crack to a stance rest (5.7). A bit of suspect rock lies above as the finger-crack system steadily leans to the left (5.10) The crack thins as you negotiate some exposed moves up to and over the steep bulge(5.11+). Heroic climbing and long pitch!

Location

Locate the downed tree on the rim near the center of the north side. Past the west end of the tree is the top of Bertilak. A tall leaning dead tree (see beta photo) is also a great landmark. Aim the rappel towards the east of the top of the route (almost in the gully between it and Edge of an Age), to be directly over the belay ledge, as the route steadily leans left.

Protection

A good top anchor consists of a #3 and #3.5 camalot or equivalent, and the belay takes small gear such as micro cam and small nut.

Bertilak rack: micro cams, stoppers, (2-3)#.3-#.75C4, (2)#1-#2C4, and (1)#3C4. lots of runners for the first half. Helmets recommended as there are a couple short sections of suspect rock, trad lightly.
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Thats about how I remember that section too, AMT. Definitely need to tiptoe through the tulips there. Sep 27, 2017
AMT
AMT  
the top third is really stellar climbing, the whole route is fun, and thanks for the development work Darren. that said, maybe it was the freeze thaw cycle this winter, but there is a LOT of loose rock in the middle and a bunch of stuff came off when i grabbed it or was loose... so heads up if you get on it. Sep 27, 2017
Robbie Brown
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11+
Robbie Brown   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11+
Very Fun. Bring lots of small cams. Oct 18, 2014
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Overhanging splitter finger crack through the headwall at very honest 5.11?!

This route is so money and it doesn't even know it. Oct 13, 2014