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Routes in Bartizan Wall

Crack of Earthly Delights T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elrod's Epic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kevizan T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lion's Share T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Naked Rib, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Storming the Castle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Window on the West T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 240 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tony Schwartz, Chris Hirsch, Kyle Rott (Ground-up) 10/14
Page Views: 295 total · 7/month
Shared By: Chris Hirsch on Oct 12, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Similar to the Naked Rib with it's exposed arĂȘte climbing. The first pitch isn't deserving of the four stars but the 45 meter 2nd pitch certainly is! Mixed climbing with some distanced bolts. Not for the 5.10-limit leader, but great for anyone looking for more of a mental challenge at this grade.

1) 90' 5.10
Start up crack that fades away. Move up to bolts. Quite chossy below roof, but gets better over the lip. Clip some pitons, one bolt, small gear if you want it then to the anchors with a small stance.

2) 140' 5.10
Take off onto the narrow, steepening rib with few bolts. Lots of sidepulls on excellent rock through the crux. Sling some horns on easier terrain and stay right to get back onto arĂȘte. Easy finish to a nice belay.

Location

This is the next rib formation to the right of the Naked Rib. Hike a short distance off the main trail to reach the start at the bottom of the gully that takes you to Crack of Earthly and Window on the West. Double rope rap.

Protection

Bolts
Pins
Small gear
Bolted rap anchors with webbing

Photos

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Mike Madsen
Rapid City
Mike Madsen   Rapid City  
Either way great work! Looks like a stellar line I have looked at it before. Oct 22, 2014
Brent Kertzman
Black Hills, SD
Brent Kertzman   Black Hills, SD
Anthony, On this one I will humbly state I have few if any relevant details to share. Regards, Brent Oct 22, 2014
t.schwartz  
 
The first pitch was completed by someone else. Various types of hardware from multiple eras were found on the first pitch? Unknown route? Kertzman chime in! We completed the second pitch which gains the rib proper for a fantastic long and airy pitch! Oct 21, 2014
Mike Madsen
Rapid City
Mike Madsen   Rapid City  
Is this the route that had the bail biner on it at one point? or does your route go up the actually rib proper? Oct 21, 2014
t.schwartz  
 
Big Walling at the Bartizan! Oct 15, 2014

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