Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest, Seth Dyer 2014
Page Views: 1,322 total · 24/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Oct 12, 2014
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


14 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Like the road of life itself, the Mogollon Rim roads can be rocky, jarring, infuriating, and just too much at times. As a famed and somewhat existential 1970’s bumper sticker put it, "Cash, grass, or ass. No one rides for free".

This is a stunning pitch which tackles a splitter line through an other worldly section of pinkish basalt. This all natural gear line features 90' of classic VC bottle neck finger locking, a clever Paradise Forks style low crux, and a full on Waterfall style roof-stem box crux at the top. Add to that some sweet ass exposure and a splitter small hands crack with excellent finishing holds, consider yourself lucky, cause you've just found one hell of a good ride!

There's tons of good gear on this pitch, and both cruxes are well protected. I feel like this will be an enjoyable, though a challenging onsight for anyone climbing the grade on local basalt. Don't forget your runners.

RAPPEL- Straight down 90' off of the front of the little 'watch tower' formation, 30' climber's right (west) of the Nyctophiliac drainage. Extra rope and rigging is nice to keep your rap line where you want it. Good Ponderosa anchors are a ways back in the woods. Rope guards are useful on the edge of the cliff as usual here.

BELAY- All gear, #.3- .5 size units in a horizontal just above sloping ledge with large patches of scrub oak below and right. A few medium wires or #.3 work well for higher pieces, though in a hollow/welded block.

Location

30' climber's right (west) of the top out drainage of Nyctophiliac, there is a small out cropping on the rim. The route tops out on the lower east shoulder of this little 'watch tower'. Rap off the front, watch for loose rock on the way down.

Protection

RACK- doubles from #00 TCU or BD through #.75, as well as a #2 BD down low. Medium wires/ large wires can be useful. Full length runners.

If you’re going for a flash, I'd bulk up on #00- #.5 sized units. It's also that kind of pitch where you can double up the smaller units in the same place. If you enjoy that as much as I do these days....

Photos

Robbie Brown
the road
Robbie Brown   the road
Currently full of Bees Nov 18, 2014
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
It is a pretty sweet pitch.... Under the roof? Nov 19, 2014
Robbie Brown
the road
Robbie Brown   the road
yes sir! Dec 8, 2014
Trevor Bowman
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Trevor Bowman   Flagstaff, AZ
 
There were no bees present last weekend. This one worked me much more than Phantasm and seemed a good bit harder for the grade. I brought a purple C3 just in case, and found this very useful protecting the upper roof crux. I don't think anything larger would fit in the crack immediately beneath the roof. Sep 12, 2016
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
I don't think too many would people would argue with an .11+ grade, but then again no one has called sandbag either. At least to my knowledge. It's a demanding pitch at the given grade, and it does make you work for it. Sep 13, 2016
Jake Croft
Tucson, Az
  5.11c
Jake Croft   Tucson, Az
  5.11c
This is a badass pitch! A thin techy section down low and an engaging roof up high, on nice orange basalt, what more could you ask for? I placed a #3 down low in addition to the recommended gear beta. Oct 9, 2017