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Routes in Area 13 - Left Side

A Danger to Ourselves and Others T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bodhisattva S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Borrowing From Tradition S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chapusero S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chupacabras S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Digit Delight S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drop Zone S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Exqueeze Me S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
I Yam S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
IEPA! S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mobetta Fogetta S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
More Trad Than Rad T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Now and Zen S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
This Ain't No Weenie Roast S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Too Many Princesses S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ugly, Fat, Mean, Come to Mammoth, Be a Queen S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wild Will's Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Preston Rhea, Stephanie Lozano - 10.11.14
Page Views: 684 total · 17/month
Shared By: Preston Rhea on Oct 11, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is a fun jug hauling romp across Area 13 for when you are just looking for something a little different or simply want the juggy pockets never to end.

It starts on the route Exqueeze Me and ends on Inyo Face. The pitches are all kept short because of serious rope drag in crossing aretes and traversing alcoves. Because Area 13 is a very popular crag and this route traverses pretty much every route on it, it can only be recommended to be climbed midweek or with utmost consideration for other parties.

Pitch 1 - Starting on Exqueeze Me, traverse right and up clipping the 2nd or 3rd bolts of the routes crossed. Aim for the point where the route Ugly, Fat, Mean, Come to Mammoth, Be a Queen transfers from the blocky face to the arete. Thin slab climbing (the technical crux) from this point leads up and right to the belay ledge halfway up Wild Will's Arete.

Pitch 2 - Stem and flake climbing leads straight up from the belay to a bolt. Traverse right from here around the arete and onto the face. Level traversing around the alcove leads to a couple exciting moves getting to a sloping ledge and the belay for Borrowing From Tradition.

Pitch 3 - Level traversing right, moving up where harder, leads to a long right slanting crack. Follow this crack to a large ledge. Belay from the ledge with a gear anchor.

Pitch 4 - Exciting but easy moves off the belay slightly down and right (harder for the follower) leads to easy face climbing trending up and to the right. Belay on a ledge with a horizontal crack just above it. This ledge is located about 5 feet above the anchors for Demasiado.

Pitch 5 - Fun juggy face climbing up and right leads to the prominent buttress of Inyo Face. Climb this to the top.

Location

Start on the far left side of Area 13.

To descend, rappel down Inyo Face or walk off the back.

Protection

The protection on this climb is mostly bolts with gear in between routes. The recommended rack is a single rack from .3 to 3, a set of nuts, and 12 draws where at least half of the draws are extendable alpine draws.

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