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Routes in Serra dos Órgãos National Park

Agulha do Diabo T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c C0
Dedo do Deus (God's Finger) East Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Aid, 700 ft, 8 pitches, Grade IV
FA: 1941
Page Views: 548 total · 14/month
Shared By: Daniel Araujo on Oct 11, 2014
Admins: Tony Yeary, Raiden

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Description

Fantastic spire located on the heart of the national park surrounded by the rain forest. 12 km approach in the jungle might be the crux of the adventure but make it wild and special. You ca make it in a single long push 12/ 16 hours activity, or choose the 2 day plan with nice bivy/ camping/ lodge options, you can even climb the Verruga do Frade or Pedra do Sino in the same opportunity. The route follow a natural line through a crack/ chimney systems.

Location

Serra do Órgãos National Park - Teresópolis - Rio de Janeiro
From Rio to Teresópolis is about 80km, 1:30 drive via BR-116. Right past the portal of the town is the entrance of the park on the left side. You have to pay the fee online or at the gate which opens at 8:00 am. For early access you must buy online. Check the park website for further info ( icmbio.gov.br/parnaserrados…). Once in the park you have to drive to the "Barragem" parking area where is the trailhead for the most of the mountains and the meadows. Confirm with the staff where to park if you staying overnight. Orientation is not so easy, you can find a guidebook of the area in climbing shops in Rio, but basically you have to follow the main path to Pedra do Sino and cut left into to the Paquequer valey at 2000m altitude mark. At this point you should see the spire across the valey and follow the single rough path down and up to a view point very close above the mountain. From there go left down the gully and up to the base of the climb which start in an off width.

Protection

Most of the way you will find fixed "P" bolts in good conditions but is recommended to bring one set of cams (0.75 - 2) to improve protection. The last pitch is a wire rope where you can still use the bolts for protection.

Photos

Nathan Scherneck
Portland, OR
Nathan Scherneck   Portland, OR