PRINT: Rock Climb The Compleat Angler, Central Oregon

The Compleat Angler

5.13-, Trad, 55 ft (17 m),

Avg: 4 from 3 votes
FA: Max Tepfer, 10/10/2014
Oregon > Central Oregon > Trout Creek > Main Wall

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure 2020 UPDATE/Private Land Boundaries Details

2020 Seasonal Raptor Closure Update: Trout Creek is open to climbing on May 15, 2020. The Golden Eagles have nested on the Warm Springs side of the formation.

SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.

blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…

blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…

ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND

Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.

Description

This route is short. Aside from that, there's not much else to complain about. Sustained, technical cruxes, near-perfect rock, and beautiful positions highlight this classic line. The movement on this is completely atypical to your standard Trout Creek crack climb.

Begin with hyper-technical stemming and liebacking between a narrow off-set and a shallow dihedral. After pulling onto a decent stance at mid height, get back what you can before firing off a slightly harder mirror image of the Mayfly's crux lieback. From here it's only another 10' of .12- on sequential, flaring fingerlocks to the jug. Finish by mantling onto the jug and climbing up and left on positive holds to the chains. (the last sequence is a tad contrived due to the anchor location, but is a more aesthetic and classic finish that avoids moderate climbing on a big suspect block out right)

Location

Left of Out Ridin' Fences. Scramble up the chimney to the pillar ledge. The line starts off the left side of the ledge.

Protection

Purple-yellow TCUs. Many blue TCUs/Red C3s, one #1 C4, stoppers useful.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Compleat

Max's photo, mid crux

Compleat Mikey

The line.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jon Rhoderick
Redmond, OR

I love this climb, I learned a lot about myself in the process of repeating it. I'd say it's one of the best routes at trout, but comparing the routes here is meaningless. Cerebral, powerful, moves with challenging stances for bomber gear, a unique route at Trout. It reminds us of Oxygen at the Morning Glory Wall, but on gear. In between Max and my ascent several holds broke or crumbled, some making moves slightly harder or easier, but I don't think the grade or quality was ever impacted. My rack was in Metolius: 0/1 (could be a 1), 7-8x 1, 1-2x 2, 3, & 5. Oct 18, 2017

Mikey Schaefer
Reno, NV

Excellent climb. Bit different than some of the harder climbs at Trout. Climbs more like a face climb than others. Only thing I'd note gear wise is I'd take one or two green C3's. These probably aren't needed if you have the rig wired but for first try they might be nice. Oct 17, 2018