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Routes in Unnamed Slabs

Unclaimed T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Unnamed T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Unwanted T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 2013
Page Views: 119 total · 3/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Oct 10, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description [Suggest Change]

Like its neighbors, Unclaimed's crux breaks through the headwall. This route has the most difficult solution to that obstacle.
Climb up tilted block to its end, then friction w/out pro on chocolate-colored rock until it becomes dirty. Work right across the filth, then up and left to the headwall, belaying behind a spruce tree at the base of a 6' tall vertical crack.
Climb the crack into the corner above, then step across right, crossing a left-facing flake with a good crack in it, to ascend the unprotected, knob-riddled slab on top of the flake. The knobs end as the angle eases; weave upward, veering to the occasional protection crack as you head for a spruce tree that blocks the final 20' of low-angle slab.

Location [Suggest Change]

Begin at the lower left corner of the tilted "flagstone" block at the base of the main slab.
Descend via rappel off trees.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Standard Rack plus a wire brush.

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