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Routes in Entrance Boulders

603 Special V0 4
Billie Jean V0- 4-
Bobby's Arete V7- 7A+
Bobby's Problem V7 7A+
Caver's Problem V5 6C
Cavers Direct V8+ 7B+
Dirty Diana V0- 4-
Doppelganger V2+ 5+
Entrance Arete V1+ 5
Mr. Crawley V0- 4-
Offset Corner V0 4
Opilio V1+ 5
Razor Blade Romance V3- 6A
Tallboy V2 5+
Tragic Inspiration V1 5
Trailside Crack V1 5
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder, 14 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 530 total, 14/month
Shared By: Christian Prellwitz on Oct 10, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

Start sitting below the arete with the right hand on a juggy shelf at 4 feet and the left hand on a small gaston crimp/edge. Work your way up the arete to a long move to a small pinch at mid height. Finish out with a few more longish moves on decent holds to a juggy hold at the lip and an easy top out.

Good movement on high quality rock!

Location

Located just to the right of 'Bobby's Problem'. It climbs the obvious arete.

Protection

A few pads are ideal

Photos

Jake Perry
Concord, NH
  V7
Jake Perry   Concord, NH
  V7
I think this and Bobby's Problem are both the same grade and quality. Two awesome V7's right next to each other. Nov 16, 2017
Graham O.
  V5
Graham O.  
  V5
I thought this was very soft for v7 or even v6. Nevertheless, super fun and aesthetic, great problem. Apr 30, 2017
eddysamson
  V7
eddysamson  
  V7
I found some different beta yesterday, check it out: youtu.be/vAl3gb-gr2g Mar 13, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
That's usually the best way to do it. Frame the shot how you want and then use the auto focus on the camera to get the part of the boulder that you want in focus. Then switch it to manual focus (so that the auto focus doesn't reactivate) and start recording. There are many other things- like understanding how ISO, aperture and shutter speed settings affect the image but that's too complex to explain here. Other than that, make sure you're shooting on the highest recording quality setting. May 22, 2015
eddysamson
  V7
eddysamson  
  V7
It does actually have auto focus and its funny you suggested that I try that before shooting. I actually did try that today and it seemed to work better although I haven't checked it out on my computer yet. I turned it on til it focused then turned it back to manual and started the video. Thanks for the info though maybe I will run into you out there some time and you can check out my rig. May 22, 2015
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
It's hard to say without having your equipment in my hand and seeing how it shoots under different settings and conditions. And seeing how you edit and process the video. Honestly, most of the video you've posted just looks out of focus to me, so are you sure that you're accurately focusing the video? Many DSLRs don't have tracking auto focus like camcorders do (not sure about the Rebel), so you have to either auto focus the video before putting it in video mode or manually focus in live view mode. I also don't know what lens you have, but lenses make a big difference. Good glass is very helpful in getting good quality video and pictures. I'm certainly not a video wizard by any means. I do however have a really good camera (Canon 5dMKII) and use almost exclusively Canon's L-series lenses, all of which is very expensive, but I make part of my living from professional photography so that's why I have them. The videos are really just a fun little hobby for me. May 22, 2015
eddysamson
  V7
eddysamson  
  V7
Any tips on shooting video Christian? Yours always look so good. I have a Rebel T1 with a basic lens but lately I haven't been very happy with the video quality and I'm not sure what I can change to fix it. It always seems like the climber is mostly in focus but the boulder isn't and you can hardly see the holds. May 22, 2015
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
Some footage of the line from last Fall. (begins at 0:47)

vimeo.com/128600974 May 22, 2015
eddysamson
  V7
eddysamson  
  V7
Did this today after I flashed Bobby's Problem. It was fun. After I got up to a left hand gaston on the high crimp for Bobby's Problem, I got my feet on the arrete holds and did a pretty big move up left to a juggy sloper that had some lichen on it. It still felt pretty solid but could probably use a brushing. The top out was a tiny bit dirty but easy regardless. Apr 19, 2015
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
There was some discussion of this line a while ago but then it seems that everyone kind of forgot about it. While warming up yesterday, I took a look at it and decided to to give it a go. I found it to be a quality and enjoyable line. The only detraction is the sharpness of some of the holds, but that is pretty typical of less traveled Rumney climbs.

Most of the line is pretty clean though the top out holds would benefit from a little bit of a scrub. Oct 10, 2014