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Routes in Unnamed Slabs

Unclaimed T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Unnamed T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Unwanted T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 2014
Page Views: 29 total, 1/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Oct 10, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

As with all the routes on this slab, the crux comes at the headwall. Unlike the others, it turns out to be rather easy - which makes this route's crux not that much more difficult than its runout "easier" parts.
Climb up the tilted block of slab, step right and go up to a short right-facing corner, capped by a triangular block. Climb up on top of the block, step left onto the dirty slab for a moment, then move up and slightly right to reach the headwall at the bottom of a right-facing corner (this is smack between the short vertical crack crux of Unclaimed and the crack crux of Unnamed ). Probably should belay here. One quick hop step achieves this corner. Climb it to its end, step right to a left-facing flake for pro, climb to its end, then cross Unclaimed, wandering right to open slab, and go up to the constriction at a spruce tree, climbing a final short, easy slab to its top.

Location

Look for the giant tilted "flagstone" block at the base of the slab. The original ascent climbed slabs below and right of this to the brushy spot beneath it, but these are not necessary: it is possible to scramble to the block.

Protection

.2" to 1 1/2" cams and a wire brush.

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