Type: Trad, 95 ft (29 m)
FA: John Jackson 1994
Page Views: 530 total · 7/month
Shared By: Brad Young on Oct 9, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route shares a start with "Gloria's Climb" on Trick Or Treat Wall's small west face. Begin 25 feet left (around and up) from the far left edge of Trick Or Treat Wall's main, south face (start in the same place as the 5.11a route "How 'Bout Just Tip?"). Climb up and right on 5.6 face to the first bolt on "Gloria's Climb." Move up and then around onto the extreme left edge of the wall's south face.

The two routes separate here. For Starlight Starbright, move up and right (past a good gear placement) to the sixth bolt on the next route to the right: "Twilight's Last Gleaming" (note, join this bolted route at it's sixth bolt, not at its fourth bolt as indicated in the John Jackson guidebook). Follow "Twilight's Last Gleaming" past four more bolts to a two bolt anchor (open cold shuts) on a face. Lower or rappel 95 feet from these to the ground.

Note: This just isn't a good route; "Gloria's Climb" and "Twilight's Last Gleaming" just don't connect well naturally. And clipping some of the bolts on "Twilight's" requires some odd, almost-beyond-the-grade climbing, whereas staying significantly left of those bolts would result in easier movement (and yes, this route pre-dated "Gloria's Climb," but this comment reflects what is there on the cliff now).

Protection

One bolt, followed by a good two inch piece, followed by five more bolts. It may also be possible to supplement the upper bolts with gear (although there are no obvious opportunities to do so). It is a long way from the fifth to the sixth bolts, and, although the first 25 feet of this run-out are very easy, the last ten feet are about 5.6.

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