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Santa's Route

5.7, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: John Jackson, 1994
California > Lake Tahoe > Truckee River C… > Deep Creek Crags > Arena

Description

This chimney route is easy to see on the right side of the East Arena; it's on a part of the cliff that faces southwest where the main cliff faces southeast, it's in obviously good rock, and it's the only chimney in this sub-area.

Most of the moves on this route are 5.6. There might be some 5.7 and there is a 5.7 crux right at the end of the fifth class climbing, stemming around a tightly wedged chockstone.

Warning also: although the very-visible chockstone seems well wedged, the climbing quickly turns into class four, loose rubble for the twenty feet right above it.

Walk off left.

P.S. What a great name for a chimney climb!

Protection

One set of cams to four inches. Medium stoppers also work well in a left-side small crack.