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I Almost Died

5.11a, Trad, 40 ft,  Avg: 2.7 from 6 votes
FA: FA Avary Tichner, Aug 1978 FFA Jeff Thomas, Ken Currens, Oct 28, 1978
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (u) Red Wall

Description

Climb up a steep arching corner crack on good finger jams. The crux for me was a brief section of flaring thin hand with no feet, some intense stemming or back stepping may help. Foot holds start appearing after the undercling, but watch out for animal poops at the jug. Pull the final roof on hand jams to two 1/4" bolt. Walk off.

Warning: Lot's of lose rocks at the top! A baseball sized chunk flew down as far as the stairs as we pulled the rope. Maybe that's how the route was named? Climbers who don't like to wear helmet please stay away.

Location

Continue walking up the Misery Ridge trail past the Red Wall and you will see an obvious arching roof/corner at the base of Red Ryder Buttress.

Protection

Gear to 2.5", a BD 3.5 may fit underneath the wide undercling slot.

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I Almost Died
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[Hide Comment] A friend told me that the name came from the risky nature of the climb when lead with only passive protection (as that was all that was available at the time). I can't image climbing I Almost Died with only nuts and hexes. Yikes!

Chad Oct 9, 2014
Johnny Y
California
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] I was glad to have cams and fired them as fast as possible in the bottom half!

The rock landed about a foot from my friend so it is now called "She Almost Died" in my book. Oct 9, 2014