Mountain Project Logo

Routes in 4. The Perfect Wave Slab

Bonsai T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X
Bubbles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crazy Woman Driver T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X
Cruise Control T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
First Wave, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Friday's Friend T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Perfect Wave T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Petroglyph, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Silver Surfer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Super Slab T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Take A Giant Step 5.8+PG / 5.7-5.6 PG-R T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tsunami T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
V-2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, 225 ft, 2 pitches
FA: R.H. & R. W.
Page Views: 99 total, 3/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Oct 8, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The route climbs the line a few feet right of Super Slab. The climb was cleaned and the bolts placed only after the quality was confirmed. Named for the two, independent Rope-Soloists who happened to meet at Rainbow on Fridays.

Approach - Same as for Bonsai

START - The same START as Super Slab.

P1 - (See "Bonsai Slab" Topo) Gain the "scooped" stance (gear at feet). Climb into the shallow, rounded, left-facing corner (5.7), clip bolt then up past two ledges (gear) and climb the cleaned face left of the non-gear, right-curving flake (bolt). Gain the good ledges (at the level of Bonsai's P1 belay) and then straight up easy rock to the right end [Var] of the tree island above. Move the belay to the LEFT END of the tree island. 130-140 ft 5.7
Variation (RECOMMENDED: May be drier, and less lichen) - Move left and intercept Bonsai to gain the left end of the tree island.

P2 - From the left end of the tree island, step left and then straight up headed for a small overlap. Clip the one bolt below the overlap and climb over it. Continue up easily, moving right slightly to a 2-bolt anchor shared with Bonsai.
Originally thought to be about 5.7, subsequent ascents of P2 have found an easier way past the bolt and overlap. 5.5 100 ft

Descent - From the double bolt anchor, Rap with 2 60Meter ropes to the ground BEING SURE TO GO TO CLIMBER'S/RAPELLER'S RIGHT (viewer's / rope-thrower's LEFT) OF THE TREE ISLAND.
Alternately, traverse 150-200 ft left across the slab to the Silver Surfer Rap Station.

Protection

draws for the bolts, maybe smaller cams down low.

Photos

0 Comments