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Sub-Mission
5.10d,
Trad, 170 ft (52 m),
Avg: 3.4 from 27
votes
FA: Chuck Cochrane (1970's) FFA Don Reid and Grant Hiskes (Aug, '84)
California
> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley S Side
> P. Cathedral Area
> 7. Lower Cathed…
> N Buttress Base Routes
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Details
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Description
An excellent corner climb located at the very toe of the North Buttress, just to the left of where the trail up meets the base.
Climb up a chimney to start with a little awkwardness exiting it. Then jam and lieback the corner to a set of bolted anchors. Sort of pumpy. There is another set of anchors higher up, just below the roof, and the climbing looks good. I got about 15 feet up this extension but down-climbed to the first anchor after encountering several wasps around the crack. You can just barely set up a toprope from the lower anchor with a 70m rope.
Protection
Pro to 4", extra finger and thin hands sizes if you're going all the way to the second anchor.
[Hide Photo] Grant M. following up. The climbing throughout this one is awesome!
[Hide Photo] Jared Malapit stemming above the triple cracks of "Sub-mission" before heading into the crux and linking with "Extendo-mission."
[Hide Photo] Jared Malapit stemming below the crux on the "Sub-mission" into "Extendo-mission" linked pitch.
[Hide Photo] The view of El Cap from the top of the second anchors is incredible!
[Hide Photo] Cams used for linking "Submission," into, "Extendo-mission."
I feel like even just climbing to the first anchor goes at 11a. The crux section would take gear but it is fairly strenuous making it difficult to place gear there. A yellow C3 or 0.3 size cam protects just below the crux. The crux probably takes a 0.4. I recommend bringing a couple #3's and a #4 in addition to doubles of red C3 through #2 Camalots, with triples of 0.3. It may also be nice to have triples of 0.75. No nuts needed.
From the upper anchor, either top belay there and make two single rope rappels (1 double) or set up a ground belay toprope using two ropes. The belayer can tie a rope to the end of the lead line, passing the knot when lowering the leader to the ground. The leader will likely have to clean the first few pieces of gear to let the knot travel high enough to bring the leader to the ground. Once the leader is on the ground, tie the other end of the extra rope to the leaders end (forming a big loop with the two ropes) and pull the opposite end back down to retrieve the first knot, untie it, and then tie the follower in to that rope side clipped through all the gear. Alternatively, the leader might be able to go off belay at the upper anchor, pull the rope up through all the gear, then toss an end back down to have the belayer tie the second rope to it (pay attention that it is tied to the correct side of the anchor (climber's left)). Other ways to do this would be to have the leader climb with the extra rope attached, or do a counter-balance belay where the follower ties in and climbs while the leader takes up slack by lowering off the other side until reaching the ground then belaying as normal (when finished the follower would make two single rope rappels).
It is possible to toprope a 13a sport route, "The Mission," after reaching the 2nd anchor. Jun 20, 2017
Yosemite, CA
June Lake, CA
Sacramento
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