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Sub-Mission

5.10d, Trad, 170 ft (52 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 27 votes
FA: Chuck Cochrane (1970's) FFA Don Reid and Grant Hiskes (Aug, '84)
California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley S Side > P. Cathedral Area > 7. Lower Cathed… > N Buttress Base Routes
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Description

An excellent corner climb located at the very toe of the North Buttress, just to the left of where the trail up meets the base.

Climb up a chimney to start with a little awkwardness exiting it. Then jam and lieback the corner to a set of bolted anchors. Sort of pumpy. There is another set of anchors higher up, just below the roof, and the climbing looks good. I got about 15 feet up this extension but down-climbed to the first anchor after encountering several wasps around the crack. You can just barely set up a toprope from the lower anchor with a 70m rope.

Protection

Pro to 4", extra finger and thin hands sizes if you're going all the way to the second anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Grant M. following up.  The climbing throughout this one is awesome!
[Hide Photo] Grant M. following up. The climbing throughout this one is awesome!
Jared Malapit stemming above the triple cracks of "Sub-mission" before heading into the crux and linking with "Extendo-mission."
[Hide Photo] Jared Malapit stemming above the triple cracks of "Sub-mission" before heading into the crux and linking with "Extendo-mission."
Jared Malapit stemming below the crux on the "Sub-mission" into "Extendo-mission" linked pitch.
[Hide Photo] Jared Malapit stemming below the crux on the "Sub-mission" into "Extendo-mission" linked pitch.
The view of El Cap from the top of the second anchors is incredible!
[Hide Photo] The view of El Cap from the top of the second anchors is incredible!
Cams used for linking "Submission," into, "Extendo-mission."
[Hide Photo] Cams used for linking "Submission," into, "Extendo-mission."

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Very aesthetic and challenging line. Awesome wide awkwardness and chimneying to start followed by a section of jamming triple cracks then enduro liebacking and stemming the rest of the way. This climb naturally goes to the upper anchor (AKA the "Extendo-mission"). The 1st anchor stops at 35m so you can lower off or rap with a single 70m rope, but definitely keep going since there is some great climbing in the last 7m or so up to the 2nd anchor.

I feel like even just climbing to the first anchor goes at 11a. The crux section would take gear but it is fairly strenuous making it difficult to place gear there. A yellow C3 or 0.3 size cam protects just below the crux. The crux probably takes a 0.4. I recommend bringing a couple #3's and a #4 in addition to doubles of red C3 through #2 Camalots, with triples of 0.3. It may also be nice to have triples of 0.75. No nuts needed.


From the upper anchor, either top belay there and make two single rope rappels (1 double) or set up a ground belay toprope using two ropes. The belayer can tie a rope to the end of the lead line, passing the knot when lowering the leader to the ground. The leader will likely have to clean the first few pieces of gear to let the knot travel high enough to bring the leader to the ground. Once the leader is on the ground, tie the other end of the extra rope to the leaders end (forming a big loop with the two ropes) and pull the opposite end back down to retrieve the first knot, untie it, and then tie the follower in to that rope side clipped through all the gear. Alternatively, the leader might be able to go off belay at the upper anchor, pull the rope up through all the gear, then toss an end back down to have the belayer tie the second rope to it (pay attention that it is tied to the correct side of the anchor (climber's left)). Other ways to do this would be to have the leader climb with the extra rope attached, or do a counter-balance belay where the follower ties in and climbs while the leader takes up slack by lowering off the other side until reaching the ground then belaying as normal (when finished the follower would make two single rope rappels).

It is possible to toprope a 13a sport route, "The Mission," after reaching the 2nd anchor. Jun 20, 2017
Andrew Upchurch
Yosemite, CA
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] This climb is bonkers good! If it weren't for the blocky start, I think this route would be an instant classic around Yosemite. The lieback crux is really intense and the whole route is just really really amazing! Do this route! Sep 6, 2019
Bryan G
June Lake, CA
5.10c
[Hide Comment] There is a 6ft tall block at the roof in the beginning of the climb which has shifted sometime recently. Actully makes the roof easier because you can now reach through to the juggy backside of the block. But use caution when climbing past it, it doesn't look very well wedged and would likely kill you if it detached while you're leading. Sep 30, 2019
wez zer
Sacramento
 
[Hide Comment] There's a large wasp nest in the back of the chimney at the top of the initial pedestal that's ~15 feet tall. A friend was attacked and stung multiple times while TRing the route and had to bail. I TR'd with long pants and a hoodie and had to move quickly thru that section - they swarmed me a bit but I avoided getting stung. Great route though! Classic kitchen sink corner climbing - all sorts of techniques required. Was glad to be on toprope thru the lieback section, the edge is rounded and the crack is thin, hard to get beyond first digits. Oct 3, 2022
Salamanizer Ski
Off the Grid…
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] That wasp nest was there in 2009 when I climbed it. Crazy. Oct 9, 2022