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Routes in Lower Cathedral Rock

76 Degrees in the Shade T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Beggar's Buttress T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bridalveil Falls East T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crack immediately right of Unnamed But Beautiful T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
East Buttress T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
End of The Line T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gash T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Geek For A Week S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Giblit S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Groom's Variation, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0
Gunsight T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
King and I S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
King for a Day S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kung Fu Panda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mac Daddy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mecca Lite S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Meccaphobia S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mechanical Advantage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Myth of Sessyphus, The T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Overhang Bypass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Overhang Overpass T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Peasant S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pilgrimage (New North Face) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Right from "76 Degrees in the Shade" T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scrubby Corner S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spectacle S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sub-Mission T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Survivor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Too Many Darts (Free Ascent) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unnamed N3 with chimney start T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unnamed but Beautiful T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Velvet Elvis S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 170 ft
FA: Chuck Cochrane (1970's) FFA Don Reid and Grant Hiskes (Aug, '84)
Page Views: 570 total, 15/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Oct 8, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

An excellent corner climb located at the very toe of the North Buttress, just to the left of where the trail up meets the base.

Climb up a chimney to start with a little awkwardness exiting it. Then jam and lieback the corner to a set of bolted anchors. Sort of pumpy. There is another set of anchors higher up, just below the roof, and the climbing looks good. I got about 15 feet up this extension but down-climbed to the first anchor after encountering several wasps around the crack. You can just barely set up a toprope from the lower anchor with a 70m rope.

Protection

Pro to 4", extra finger and thin hands sizes if you're going all the way to the second anchor.

Photos

Aaron Formella
Atascadero, CA
  5.11a
Aaron Formella   Atascadero, CA
  5.11a
Very aesthetic and challenging line. Awesome wide awkwardness and chimneying to start followed by a section of jamming triple cracks then enduro liebacking and stemming the rest of the way. This climb naturally goes to the upper anchor (AKA the "Extendo-mission"). The 1st anchor stops at 35m so you can lower off or rap with a single 70m rope, but definitely keep going since there is some great climbing in the last 7m or so up to the 2nd anchor.

I feel like even just climbing to the first anchor goes at 11a. The crux section would take gear but it is fairly strenuous making it difficult to place gear there. A yellow C3 or 0.3 size cam protects just below the crux. The crux probably takes a 0.4. I recommend bringing a couple #3's and a #4 in addition to doubles of red C3 through #2 Camalots, with triples of 0.3. It may also be nice to have triples of 0.75. No nuts needed.


From the upper anchor, either top belay there and make two single rope rappels (1 double) or set up a ground belay toprope using two ropes. The belayer can tie a rope to the end of the lead line, passing the knot when lowering the leader to the ground. The leader will likely have to clean the first few pieces of gear to let the knot travel high enough to bring the leader to the ground. Once the leader is on the ground, tie the other end of the extra rope to the leaders end (forming a big loop with the two ropes) and pull the opposite end back down to retrieve the first knot, untie it, and then tie the follower in to that rope side clipped through all the gear. Alternatively, the leader might be able to go off belay at the upper anchor, pull the rope up through all the gear, then toss an end back down to have the belayer tie the second rope to it (pay attention that it is tied to the correct side of the anchor (climber's left)). Other ways to do this would be to have the leader climb with the extra rope attached, or do a counter-balance belay where the follower ties in and climbs while the leader takes up slack by lowering off the other side until reaching the ground then belaying as normal (when finished the follower would make two single rope rappels).

It is possible to toprope a 13a sport route, "The Mission," after reaching the 2nd anchor. Jun 20, 2017
Michael Dom
  5.10c
Michael Dom  
  5.10c
What a great climb, best there is at the crag. Dec 13, 2015