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Tsunami

5.6, Trad, 225 ft (68 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 12 votes
FA: Joe Cote & Mike Hartrich, 1975
New Hampshire > WM: Kancamagus… > Rainbow Slabs > 4. The Perfect Wave Slab
Warning Access Issue: You may see the Peregrine Falcons closure signs for Painted Walls on the approach path to Rainbow but, so far, Rainbow has always remained open. DetailsDrop down

Description

Another beautiful climb on the "Perfect Wave Slab". Handren gave it 3 stars out of 3 (the only such rating he gave to any Rainbow climb).

See the ROUTE PHOTO posted to Cruise Control.

Approach- From where the climber's path reaches the slab, walk right along the base about 35-40 ft. Go uphill to a dirt ledge below a brownish 12ft-high slab. Scramble ( 5.4 ? )or belay-climb up the 12 ft face to a large ledge with a couple of pine trees, one of which is knocked over.

An interesting alternate approach is to climb Perfect Wave (5.7) as far as the threaded anchor, and WITH A 70 METER ROPE, “thread“ the anchor with your own ‘biner(s) and then lower down ("tension traverse" downhill) Tsunami to this same ledge. Don't try it with a 60M rope!...( or even an old, or shortened, 70m ) and don't try it as your first ( or even 2nd) tension traverse. The second then follows up to the anchor and is lowered by the leader on the ledge. KNOT THE END ( see photo ) 

P1 - From the tree ledge (see topo), climb up and left to the obvious dike; follow this to the threaded anchor of Perfect Wave. 115 ft 5.6

Descent- Thread the anchor and rappel ( KNOT ENDS !, see photo)   back with a 70M, or ( better) continue climbing up to the top of the slab and the bolted anchor at the top of Silver Surfer.

Protection

Usual rack, at least one natural thread along the way; and the smaller Aliens are useful.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Tsunami Ledge Topo - Covers area obscured by trees in the photo of The Perfect Wave Slab
[Hide Photo] Tsunami Ledge Topo - Covers area obscured by trees in the photo of The Perfect Wave Slab
If you rap off the flake on Perfect Wave (5.7) with a 70m rope, this is how much you have left when you get to the Tsunami Ledge
[Hide Photo] If you rap off the flake on Perfect Wave (5.7) with a 70m rope, this is how much you have left when you get to the Tsunami Ledge
Path along base to get to the Tsunami / Cruise Control area and the scramble up to "Tsunami Ledge"
[Hide Photo] Path along base to get to the Tsunami / Cruise Control area and the scramble up to "Tsunami Ledge"

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tony Telesco
Burlington, VT
 
[Hide Comment] If you wanted to go super light on the rack this climb can be well protected with only tri-cams and threaded runners - I think I placed 3 of each. Oct 26, 2015
Nick Grant
Tamworth, NH
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Better protection than most Whitehorse routes, but be prepared to run it out for at least 20 ft. on a few occasions. The good news is that this route is way easier than Standard or Beginners' Route. (The Brown Spot pitch is 5.5? Gimme a break.) Oct 26, 2023
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Hey Nickā€¦.when I first did the Brown-Spot-Boilerplate it was rated 5.4 !! Of course, no bolts ! Oct 26, 2023