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Routes in Lost Mountain

Legends Never Die T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Wilson Cutbirth Phil Pedry
Page Views: 940 total · 23/month
Shared By: shredthered on Oct 8, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Legends never die follows a clean and adventurous crack system, with splitters and multiple roofs, up a large wall deep in Boyton canyon, to a big ledge 3/4 of the way up the wall where the route ends with an incredible view of Sedona rarely seen.

p1. Splitter in a corner on perfect rock to a park bench ledge belay. 5.10
p2. Bust some moves off the ledge to gain the thin crack once at the roof clip a bolt and traverse far left, follow the dihedral to a hanging belay below the next roof. 5.10+ (loose rock near the end)
p3. Exciting! clip a bolt pull the roof climb the splitter until it runs out then traverse right to the next crack. then up to to belay on a small chock stone ledge. 5.10+
p4. Pull out the big guys. Climb the dihedral to the roof, pull the roof in to a tight squeeze chimney, grunt your way up the squeeze protecting deep in the back to a hanging belay. 5.10+
p5. climb up to the the large pod and stem out of the roof, follow broken cracks to the top. 5.10- ( A lot of choss on this pitch to remind you, you never left Sedona)

Descent: Rap to the top of p4, then with 2 60m ropes rap to the p1 anchor then to the ground.

Location

Take dry creek road out of Sedona making a left at the first stop sign and a right at the second, park at boyton canyon trailhead.
There is a good trail all the way, it just requires some good path finding skills. Hike boyton canyon trail for about 45min. The trail will enter a ponderosa forest and parallel a wash on the right. after the trail splits from the wash look for a small, not easily visible trail on the right blocked by a laid over log. If you enter the box canyon on the main trail you went to far. Take this trail, you will pass 3 amigos spire on your right and you will see many big coke walls on your left Legends is on the last one. The trail will eventually dump you in a wash, follow the wash looking for cairns that indicate when the trail exits the wash. Follow the trail after it exits the wash. you will be able to see the route from here. the trail will pass the route and climb threw the bushes for a while then enter a small clearing from the clearing bush whack the rest of the way up and back to the base. The route starts in the obvious splitter dihedral.

Protection

1 set tcus, doubles to #3, 3 #4, 2 old #5, 1 #6, draws and runners

Photos

Zach Harrison
  5.10+
Zach Harrison  
  5.10+
Modern adventure with an old school feel in a 10 star setting! Finding it is pretty easy if you follow directions, it just takes a long time. I would say take 3X .75's for the 1st pitch, but then pare the listed rack down to singles of all sizes with 2 BD#3,4's and 1#5 after that since the pitches are all short. The 4th pitch was bonkers, but the hanging belay was the worst! Maybe link to summit? Nice line guys. Mar 3, 2016

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