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Routes in Shanty Cliff

(tbd, currently) Orange Gladiators T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bidonville T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Breadline S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Climber's Yodel S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corktown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flying Friends T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grandson of Circuitous Shit T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Gripe of Wrath S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gunky Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Life and Debt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Gem Diner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mean Low Blues T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pug Love T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Railroad Dickie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
River View TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Rocinha T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shanty Girl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shantyclear T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Shantytown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sleep Walk T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Son of Circuitous Shit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Soup Kitchen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soweto T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swampoodle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Time Trials T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vernal Imperatives T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jim Vermeulen
Page Views: 84 total, 2/month
Shared By: J. Serpico on Oct 7, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

P1: Climb the fern filled gully and step right following a right leaning crack in the slab. Climb up to the lower of two left leaning cracks, follow the lower crack to it's end and exit up a left facing corner/crack system from a ledge. Scramble to the top.

Location

This route begins on the extreme left of the cliffs, just downhill from lunch rocks and just up hill of the steep trail. There is a low roof that goes into the ground. Begin 15 ft left of this.

Protection

Standard rack. Be sure to protect the second on the traverse. There is a birch with a fixed rappel anchor at the top (webbing and rap ring, new as of Fall 2014). Gear anchors are possible for belay below. Walkoff is about 3 minutes to the base to climbers left.

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