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Routes in West Face
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Jenn's Hooked T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sea of Tranquility T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 5 pitches |
| FA: | Brad Young 1989 |
| Page Views: | 2,059 total · 48/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Gorgolewski on Oct 6, 2014 |
| Admins: | M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your Star Rating:
Description
Karl Palsson writes: "...[this] is a mega classic. Really really nice climbing.
Stunning to be climbing in afternoon sun too [though it makes the descent in the dark a littler harder :) ]
A Couple of updates to the HW108 guide.
There's actually 6 bolts on the first pitch, an extra one between the marked 3 and 4, and between the marked 4 and the belay.
The anchor at the top of P1 is a 3bb not a 2bb as marked in the guide.
The second pitch is much straighter than it appears in the guide, and has an extra third bolt
The pitches do NOT get shorter, contrary to what the book may appear to show :)
They do however, get easier.
The third belay is quite crusty and arbitrary, if you are climbing in daylight, you would probably start simul climbing here and be done with it. All gear is thin and marginal. Biggest piece we used was a #1 tricam.
Also, the big 12' high column marked in the topo is more to the right, closer to the top of the climb than is shown.
This info is(was) correct as at 2 - Sept - 2001."
Stunning to be climbing in afternoon sun too [though it makes the descent in the dark a littler harder :) ]
A Couple of updates to the HW108 guide.
There's actually 6 bolts on the first pitch, an extra one between the marked 3 and 4, and between the marked 4 and the belay.
The anchor at the top of P1 is a 3bb not a 2bb as marked in the guide.
The second pitch is much straighter than it appears in the guide, and has an extra third bolt
The pitches do NOT get shorter, contrary to what the book may appear to show :)
They do however, get easier.
The third belay is quite crusty and arbitrary, if you are climbing in daylight, you would probably start simul climbing here and be done with it. All gear is thin and marginal. Biggest piece we used was a #1 tricam.
Also, the big 12' high column marked in the topo is more to the right, closer to the top of the climb than is shown.
This info is(was) correct as at 2 - Sept - 2001."
Stunning to be climbing in afternoon sun too [though it makes the descent in the dark a littler harder :) ]
A Couple of updates to the HW108 guide.
There's actually 6 bolts on the first pitch, an extra one between the marked 3 and 4, and between the marked 4 and the belay.
The anchor at the top of P1 is a 3bb not a 2bb as marked in the guide.
The second pitch is much straighter than it appears in the guide, and has an extra third bolt
The pitches do NOT get shorter, contrary to what the book may appear to show :)
They do however, get easier.
The third belay is quite crusty and arbitrary, if you are climbing in daylight, you would probably start simul climbing here and be done with it. All gear is thin and marginal. Biggest piece we used was a #1 tricam.
Also, the big 12' high column marked in the topo is more to the right, closer to the top of the climb than is shown.
This info is(was) correct as at 2 - Sept - 2001
Cheers,
Karl Palsson
tweak.net.au Oct 22, 2002
Yosemite Village, California
Paso Robles
Some of the bolts are hard to see as you climb. Number 6 on the first pitch seemed a bit off route and snuck up about 20 feet to my right when I finally saw it. A little traverse and no problem, but you may want to bring an extra runner to account for the rope drag.
For the descent, stay above the veg line and traverse the ridge climber's right. Drop down the drainage once you've cleared the whitethorn, your shins will appreciate you. May 31, 2016