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Jenn's Hooked T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sea of Tranquility T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: Brad Young 1989
Page Views: 1,988 total, 51/month
Shared By: Chris Gorgolewski on Oct 6, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Karl Palsson writes: "...[this] is a mega classic. Really really nice climbing.

Stunning to be climbing in afternoon sun too [though it makes the descent in the dark a littler harder :) ]

A Couple of updates to the HW108 guide.

There's actually 6 bolts on the first pitch, an extra one between the marked 3 and 4, and between the marked 4 and the belay.

The anchor at the top of P1 is a 3bb not a 2bb as marked in the guide.

The second pitch is much straighter than it appears in the guide, and has an extra third bolt

The pitches do NOT get shorter, contrary to what the book may appear to show :)

They do however, get easier.

The third belay is quite crusty and arbitrary, if you are climbing in daylight, you would probably start simul climbing here and be done with it. All gear is thin and marginal. Biggest piece we used was a #1 tricam.

Also, the big 12' high column marked in the topo is more to the right, closer to the top of the climb than is shown.

This info is(was) correct as at 2 - Sept - 2001."

Location

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Photos

A Johnson
Paso Robles
  5.7
A Johnson   Paso Robles
  5.7
Only need to use technique on the first three pitches. You can simul-climb or just walk the rest of this this one. Third pitch belay setup is arbitrary. You can sling some horns and use several pieces of gear above the final 5.6 move. As for protecting the 5.6 mantle, any number of options are available depending on your exact point of attack. I used a great #2 Camalot, but if you get creative, anything could work.

Some of the bolts are hard to see as you climb. Number 6 on the first pitch seemed a bit off route and snuck up about 20 feet to my right when I finally saw it. A little traverse and no problem, but you may want to bring an extra runner to account for the rope drag.

For the descent, stay above the veg line and traverse the ridge climber's right. Drop down the drainage once you've cleared the whitethorn, your shins will appreciate you. May 31, 2016
Chad Lawver
Yosemite Village, California
Chad Lawver   Yosemite Village, California
Would recommend only for confident 5.7 leaders, as the first bolt is about 15-20 feet off the deck. Sep 13, 2015
"Sea of Tranquility" here is a mega classic. Really really nice climbing.

Stunning to be climbing in afternoon sun too [though it makes the descent in the dark a littler harder :) ]

A Couple of updates to the HW108 guide.

There's actually 6 bolts on the first pitch, an extra one between the marked 3 and 4, and between the marked 4 and the belay.

The anchor at the top of P1 is a 3bb not a 2bb as marked in the guide.

The second pitch is much straighter than it appears in the guide, and has an extra third bolt

The pitches do NOT get shorter, contrary to what the book may appear to show :)

They do however, get easier.

The third belay is quite crusty and arbitrary, if you are climbing in daylight, you would probably start simul climbing here and be done with it. All gear is thin and marginal. Biggest piece we used was a #1 tricam.

Also, the big 12' high column marked in the topo is more to the right, closer to the top of the climb than is shown.

This info is(was) correct as at 2 - Sept - 2001

Cheers,

Karl Palsson

tweak.net.au Oct 22, 2002