Type: Trad, 4 pitches
FA: Brad Young 1989
Page Views: 2,493 total · 49/month
Shared By: Chris Gorgolewski on Oct 6, 2014 with updates from Ken L
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Karl Palsson writes: "...[this] is a mega classic. Really really nice climbing.

Stunning to be climbing in afternoon sun too [though it makes the descent in the dark a littler harder :) ]

A Couple of updates to the HW108 guide.

There's actually 6 bolts on the first pitch, an extra one between the marked 3 and 4, and between the marked 4 and the belay.

The anchor at the top of P1 is a 3bb not a 2bb as marked in the guide.

The second pitch is much straighter than it appears in the guide, and has an extra third bolt

The pitches do NOT get shorter, contrary to what the book may appear to show :)

They do however, get easier.

The third belay is quite crusty and arbitrary, if you are climbing in daylight, you would probably start simul climbing here and be done with it. All gear is thin and marginal. Biggest piece we used was a #1 tricam.

Also, the big 12' high column marked in the topo is more to the right, closer to the top of the climb than is shown.

This info is(was) correct as at 2 - Sept - 2001."

Location

n/a

Protection

1 set of cams 1/2" - 1", an extra 1/2"-3/4" cam,  and a few slings. First 2 pitches have bolted anchors, but you will need to build a trad anchor at top of pitches 3 and 4.

Photos

"Sea of Tranquility" here is a mega classic. Really really nice climbing.

Stunning to be climbing in afternoon sun too [though it makes the descent in the dark a littler harder :) ]

A Couple of updates to the HW108 guide.

There's actually 6 bolts on the first pitch, an extra one between the marked 3 and 4, and between the marked 4 and the belay.

The anchor at the top of P1 is a 3bb not a 2bb as marked in the guide.

The second pitch is much straighter than it appears in the guide, and has an extra third bolt

The pitches do NOT get shorter, contrary to what the book may appear to show :)

They do however, get easier.

The third belay is quite crusty and arbitrary, if you are climbing in daylight, you would probably start simul climbing here and be done with it. All gear is thin and marginal. Biggest piece we used was a #1 tricam.

Also, the big 12' high column marked in the topo is more to the right, closer to the top of the climb than is shown.

This info is(was) correct as at 2 - Sept - 2001

Cheers,

Karl Palsson

tweak.net.au Oct 22, 2002
Chad Lawver
Yosemite Village, CA
Chad Lawver   Yosemite Village, CA
Would recommend only for confident 5.7 leaders, as the first bolt is about 15-20 feet off the deck. Sep 13, 2015
A Johnson
Atascadero
  5.7
A Johnson   Atascadero
  5.7
Only need to use technique on the first three pitches. You can simul-climb or just walk the rest of this this one. Third pitch belay setup is arbitrary. You can sling some horns and use several pieces of gear above the final 5.6 move. As for protecting the 5.6 mantle, any number of options are available depending on your exact point of attack. I used a great #2 Camalot, but if you get creative, anything could work.

Some of the bolts are hard to see as you climb. Number 6 on the first pitch seemed a bit off route and snuck up about 20 feet to my right when I finally saw it. A little traverse and no problem, but you may want to bring an extra runner to account for the rope drag.

For the descent, stay above the veg line and traverse the ridge climber's right. Drop down the drainage once you've cleared the whitethorn, your shins will appreciate you. May 31, 2016
Ken L
Oakland, CA
  5.7 PG13
Ken L   Oakland, CA
  5.7 PG13
First pitch is a soft but slightly runout 5.7. It has 6 bolts plus 3-bolt anchor. We added two 1/2" cam placements.

Second pitch has fewer bolts, but is easier, and also has bolted anchor

Third pitch has a few bolts and we used about 3 cams up to 1", and also a trad anchor. Very runout, but perhaps 5.4-5.5.

Fourth pitch is very short and easy. and leads to walk off just above the prominent roof (one 5.6 move). Once above the roof, it's pretty much 3rd class. You can build a trad anchor anywhere to belay your follower over the roof.

Descent was to walk up easy slab to top of the dome and then descend in the gully to the climbers right, and then back to base to pick up our packs. Some bushwacking through low manzanita on both the approach and descent.

We did this as a group of 3 and it was a fantastic climb for an inexperienced follower. The leader should be very comfortable due to the runouts, but a first-time climber could probably follow this route.

Very fun and scenic. Good stances for 3 people at all of the belays. Highly recommended. Jul 2, 2018