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Routes in Goldy Area

Another Face V0 4
Appollo V0 4
Balancing Act V2 5+
Edges V2 5+
Flying Carpet V4 6B
Get Up V2 5+
More Edges V2 5+
Offwidth, The V0 4
Wacko Arete V2 5+
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Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,943 total · 39/month
Shared By: Adam Jensen on Oct 5, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Access Issue: UDOT will ticket cars parked on the south side of the canyon opposite the Secret Garden bouldering area. Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Very enjoyable climbing in and out of the large splitting crack. Tall.

Location

This boulder is further east of the Goldy Boulder; climb the wide, south-facing crack in view of the trail.

Protection

crash pad, spotter

Photos

Mark P Thomas
Draper
  V0-
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  V0-
If you want to lead this, bring 1 BD #5 (optional) and 1 BD #6. If you want to TR this, #6 cams are your only option. 1 works, but two might give you more piece of mind.

You can easily hang a lantern off the TR anchor at night to light the climb - great for the hot summer times.

This is a good enough crack for pushing cams that I think in the future I'll bring a harness & #6 cam and just solo this on a leash to get smoother at the climbing w/ pro management.

Also, I'd call this a 5.8 OW. Aug 11, 2017
Nicholas Spiropulos
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Nicholas Spiropulos   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I found having my right shoulder in from start to finish was key. Gets easier towards the top as the crack widens a bit and makes butt jamming easier. Just don't fall! It's a long way down! Sep 7, 2017

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