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Routes in Bartizan Wall

Crack of Earthly Delights T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elrod's Epic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kevizan T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lion's Share T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Naked Rib, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Storming the Castle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Window on the West T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Jim Black & Bob Archbold 8/28/80
Page Views: 377 total · 9/month
Shared By: Chris Hirsch on Oct 5, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

There are still some secret gems in the Needles. I'm surprised I hadn't heard about this line earlier. If you like a typical needles crack, slightly flaring with solid fingers, hands, fists, some awkwardness, and if you can overlook a tiny section of choss and lichen, then go do this! This climb stays very consistent for the full length with the crux being the roof pull.

Location

This is part of the 'Land of OZ', which is a small gully just behind the Bartizan Wall, to the W. Best to approach from the S, passing on the left side of the Naked Rib. Crack is on E face of the Lions spire with a triangular roof up high. Single 80m makes the rappel, 70m might be really close.

Protection

Double rack to BD #3, plus #4
Long slings
Anchor; One new bolt and 1/4" button head with cord and quicklink.

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