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Routes in Milk Creek (aka Wolcott Navajo Band - East)

5.7 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
5.8 Hand Jams T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dog Leash Harness T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Right Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slanty Hands T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Walkin' On Air T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wolcott Great Roof aka Bob Scarpelli Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Wrong Crack T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Drew Spaulding, 1997
Page Views: 754 total · 17/month
Shared By: Drew Spaulding on Oct 5, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Trestle and CMC areas are off limits. Details

Description

Walkin' On Air has 2 cruxes of 5.10+. Toward the left side of the crag there is an old bolted face climb. Then, next climb to the right is a right-facing corner with thin jams that I always thought was about 5.10a/b. The next climb to the right is Walking On Air. It's kinda a "K" shaped feature with an arching crack to start. Pull through a blocky roof to a pinky-lock (10+) and up to a rest halfway up. Lie-back the upper balancy corner and Walk on Air!!!

Protection

Thin gear to 3". It has a 3-bolt anchor.

Photos

Drew Spaulding
Boulder, CO
 
Drew Spaulding   Boulder, CO
 
This is a wild and awkward little pitch! I haven't climbed it in years.... I remember placing a tight #3 Camalot just under the first roof to avoid placing gear in the horizontal, wedged, block crack. The key to reaching for the pinky lock is a leg bar between the right foot and the right calf just under the roof. Crank up on the jug, hook that calf, then reach with the right pinky down! Palm the arĂȘte with the left hand to step up into the horizontal crack.... Bold crux! Mar 28, 2017
Drew Spaulding
Boulder, CO
 
Drew Spaulding   Boulder, CO
 
The upper crux is a whole other animal. The left hand and the left foot behind you... are the key to walking on air! Sequential! Mar 28, 2017
Scheid
Vail, CO
  5.11-
Scheid   Vail, CO
  5.11-
Anchor webbing replaced with new cordalette today. There is a good bit of loose rock on the upper crux at the moment, the belayer should keep their head on a swivel.

I placed 2 red Camalots and then a yellow below the block and then another yellow in the horizonal. I never used a blue but put a #4 in the pod below the finger crack crux. Sep 11, 2017

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