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Routes in Milk Creek (aka Wolcott Navajo Band - East)

5.7 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
5.8 Hand Jams T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dog Leash Harness T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Right Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slanty Hands T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Walkin' On Air T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wolcott Great Roof aka Bob Scarpelli Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Wrong Crack T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: ??? on the original FA
Page Views: 760 total, 20/month
Shared By: Drew Spaulding on Oct 5, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Trestle and CMC areas are off limits. Details

Description

Located on the right side of the crag is the obvious ROOF. Thin crack leads up to 5.10 hands out the roof until it widens at its end (crux). Grunt and squeeze out the lip to use the tree above for the anchor.

Protection

Thin gear to 4". Use the tree above for the anchor.
Matthew Ryan Jones
Minturn, CO
Matthew Ryan Jones   Minturn, CO
I worked on this thing for a couple years before I got it clean. I also think there is a foothold that has appeared under the roof, just before the flare. I also think this route is 11d, and it's pretty widely accepted by Eagle County locals to be a 12, but after sending, I'm not sure I could agree with that. I do however think that the hardest part of the route is after the flare, where any suspect footholds could not be utilized. On another note about this fantastic line, it's called the Bob Scarpelli Crack around here, because the first ascentionist tried to get a hold of Bob to come climb this thing when the crag was being developed. No one is certain who got this roof first, but I think the culprits may have also put a few other lines up in the area and are long time Vail locals. Jul 25, 2015
Drew Spaulding
Boulder, CO
 
Drew Spaulding   Boulder, CO
 
Martin, do you really think it's a "new" edge? I only climbed this route once and remember the hardest part is the awkward, flaring fist crack above the far end of the roof. It looks like my feet are on some edges out near the end of the roof... do you think I'm over-rating the difficulty? Let us know what you think the rating should be.... Feb 3, 2015
There is a foot hold at the right edge of the roof that has appeared in the last few years, making this route much easier. I hope it came about naturally. Feb 3, 2015