Avg: 2 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 750 ft, 4 pitches|
|FA:||Bob Goodwin, Rob Dezonia November 2006|
|Page Views:||86 total, 2/month|
|Shared By:||Darren in Vegas on Oct 4, 2014|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThis route is on the right side of the Blood Wall. Look for the crack and corner system that goes to the top of the wall. I would recommend this route to a person who enjoys adventurous 5.10 climbing over some runouts. Some of the rock is of amazing quality, some is not. With more traffic this route could become better.
p1. (5.9) Start at a large dead pine which will mark the correct corner system. I climbed in from the right to avoid the tree. Once into the corner system, stem your way up. The back of the corner will pinch down to nothing for some stretches, leaving few gear options. Go left at the end of the corner system, and up a short crack system. This will lead to a huge ledge that currently has a bunch of slings making a rappel station.
I thought this pitch was light for 5.9, but with sparse gear.
p2. (10-) Once on the big ledge look for the crack system on the right side. Do not go up the corner on the left side of the ledge.
Lead up through a bouldery leaning lieback with some fragile rock and mildly inspiring gear. This leads to a left leaning thin crack system, with some fragile face holds. Gain a right facing corner and belay on a sloping ledge. This pitch gets 10a in the guidebook, but I thought it was a bit tougher than that, with tricky gear and creaky holds.
p3. (10-) This pitch starts up a cool varnished section of corner with a bit of a run to some gear. A yellow tcu and a #2 camalot are the only gear I got for quite a bit of climbing.
Continue up the corner until it begins to run out. Look right and a few layback moves up a small crack will take you to the belay. RPs help in these last few moves.
If you bring a 70m rope, you should be able to make it past this belay to a huge, more comfortable ledge. The guidebook calls this the crux pitch, but I though p2 was more demanding.
p4. (5.8) The corner system becomes left facing at this point, and the quality of the climbing begins to diminish. Go up the brushy corner until you are almost to the top. We stopped to belay about 50 vertical feet below the summit to alleviate some rope drag. Here our fifth pitch took us left about 30 feet to another corner system, under a roof. It appeared to be of better rock quality than going straight up. I found this pitch hard to rate, but required effort.
Descent: Top out on the formation and start looking for the heavily cairned trail. We couldn't figure out how to down climb one section and found a tree with a rap anchor. This rappel only needed one rope. From here more cairns appeared, no more rapelling needed.