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Routes in 2. Height of Land

Hermaphrodite Flake T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mississippi Ramble T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Road Between Worlds T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Road to Lhasa T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Slab of the Woods T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X
Summer Breeze T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Yak Between Worlds T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Paul Ross and Tana Cathcart Aug. 7 1973
Page Views: 91 total, 2/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Oct 4, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

One of the climbs done by Ross & Cathart on AUG 7 '73. The original line has much moss and lichen; the variation avoids this but is quite run out. The 5.4 is the original Paul Ross "Old School" rating. I'd give it 2 stars if climbed via the Variation.

START: Below the obvious large flake with a huge pine tree growing on a ledge about 140 ft up. (see topo)

P1 - Up the obvious flake (Var.), moss and all, and move left onto the main flake ( clean rock at last !) then up the nice crack to the tree. 140 - 150 ft, perhaps a slightly higher grade than the "old school" 5.4 classically given.

At the tree, beware pine sap on the rock and tree which just LOVES to get on shoes and ropes!

Variation - Clean rock, but run-out to the crack. Start about half-way between Face Dances and Road to Lhasa, about 10-15 ft left of the "mossy start", where some clean rock nearly reaches the ground and where the fine crack in the flake now can be seen. Climb the face, with gear on the right at about 20 ft, then 30 ft further (5.4-5.5 R/X) to reach the clean crack. Up this to the tree.

Descent - Rap from the huge pine tree with two ropes.

Protection

Normal rack

Photos

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