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Neutron

5.10a, Trad, 70 ft,  Avg: 3.8 from 14 votes
FA: Bauer/Osman '88
California > Lake Tahoe > Carson Pass Hig… > Woodfords Canyon > Cloudburst Canyon > High Energy Wall

Description

Neutron is an excellent right leaning hand crack in a steep corner. Neutron will probably be the first obvious feature you notice on the approach to High Energy Wall.

The original line shares an anchor with another very classic leaning crack called Proton, which is off to the left. Ryan Curry and FA-ist Mark Bauer added a direct line and anchors, which does not increase difficulty, and continues straight up from the end of the Neutron corner..

The position of the original anchor will create some heinous rope grinding drag if you were to just lower off of it, so we elected to belay from the cozy ledge up top and rap back to the ground. (You can also set a few directionals and TR Proton if you want from these anchors) Or as Ryan points out in the comments, you can climb to the direct line to anchors instead.

I understand there is also a second pitch from the original (Proton) anchor station, but I don't have any beta on it.

Location

Start on the slab directly below the Neutron corner, not in the moss filled corner to the right.

Protection

.3 to #3, likes #2 through crux

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Tyson ionizing on the the obscure classic that is Neutron.
[Hide Photo] Tyson ionizing on the the obscure classic that is Neutron.
neutron .10a
[Hide Photo] neutron .10a
Kenny on Neutron
[Hide Photo] Kenny on Neutron

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Mark Bauer and I added a direct finish to avoid the traverse at the end of the original pitch. If you continue straight up from the end of the corner you can link into another crack/flake (2 bolts) to a separate anchor at the top of the cliff. This stretch goes at 5.7/5.8-ish. Oct 6, 2014
Laine Christman
Reno, NV
 
[Hide Comment] Did this route to the Bauer/Curry finish. This direct finish really adds to the route overall and keeps the rope drag to a minimum. I skipped the bolts and found decent pro in the crack/flake. Classic line from beginning to end Oct 13, 2014
Khick
 
[Hide Comment] Do the direct finish! It feels too short if you go let to the anchors on the ledge. Oct 15, 2014