Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Purple Gold

V8, Boulder,  Avg: 3.4 from 30 votes
FA: Ian CB or someone else.. anybody know? Like really know? I've heard rumors
Wisconsin > Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > Devil's Lake Bo… > Burma Rd

Description

Start from a stand with your left hand on the arete and right on an undercling that will pinch you if not grabbed just right. Pull on and climb up through the center of the wall through edges, a sidepull and big moves. An easy mantle gets you on top. A real gem I think, and surely one of the best of the grade in park. Wait for a dry day, this thing can be wet sometimes.

Location

Just above the Burmese Python/Shaking hands boulder in the pit.

Protection

I had four pads. I put 2 on the slab and two on the bottom. The slab never came into play.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Dobbe
[Hide Photo] Dobbe
Hitting the sidepull
[Hide Photo] Hitting the sidepull
Dobbe on the start.
[Hide Photo] Dobbe on the start.
Jeremy snagging the jug!
[Hide Photo] Jeremy snagging the jug!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Remo
Madison, WI
  V8
[Hide Comment] Nice work Ian! I think this is the better line on the boulder and I'm psyched to do it! Oct 3, 2014
chris tregge
Madison WI
[Hide Comment] Me too Remo, let's make it happen! Oct 3, 2014
madison choss
  V8-
[Hide Comment] Great problem - one of the best at Burma. Not so bad - v8? Like tunder but a little harder? People should climb this and pretend Waffle House never happened... Oct 23, 2014
Aaron Wait
North Bend, WA
  V8
[Hide Comment] Big moves on an overhanging face with positive holds. The landing isn't too bad either. Super Fun!

Definitely pad the slab/side-wall, when a group of us was on this Yesterday there was some occasional & harmless glancing off the slab/side-wall Nov 2, 2014
Remo
Madison, WI
  V8
[Hide Comment] Best at Burma! We had a send train on it today. The moves are classic! Nov 9, 2014
Dobbe Dobbe
Madison, WI
  V8
[Hide Comment] Great problem! Top climbs at the lake. Nice work Ian in finding a lot better line then Waffle House. Nov 10, 2014
Ian Cotter-Brown

  V9-
[Hide Comment] Glad people are climbing this thing! I thought it was super fun. FYI at most climbing areas, though maybe not here, this would be v9, so take that into consideration when you travel! Who knows though, right? Nov 10, 2014
Dobbe Dobbe
Madison, WI
  V8
[Hide Comment] Being in that hole I think the humidity might change the problem a lot. When we were there it was on the 8 to 8- range from any other place I have climbed. 4 stars anywhere. Nov 11, 2014
madison choss
  V8-
[Hide Comment] being a day of the year, what's about to fall off your 8a card also affects how hard the problem feels. Nov 12, 2014
randy baum
 
[Hide Comment] dabby by left start hold. right side wall off makes this a bit of an eliminate. if this boulder was freestanding, then it would be four stars for sure. beta of flash. barely hit the jug! youtu.be/QJt_rEk5lic Oct 16, 2020
Zach Bramel
MN
 
[Hide Comment] Video:
youtube.com/watch?v=uR91ZBB… Apr 20, 2021
G Man
Tahoe
 
[Hide Comment] Honestly the first move is essentially undoable if you have a small wingspan sub 5'4" ish. The rest of the boulder is fun but probably about V6. Sep 24, 2021