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Rainbow Connection

5.11c PG13, Trad, TR, 60 ft,  Avg: 2.2 from 5 votes
FA: Michael Adams and Dan Lepska
Washington > Central-E Casca… > Tumwater Canyon > Castle Rock > Upper Castle

Description

Just to the right of the bolted line of Das Musak lays a gear route that rarely sees an ascent. Step off the boulder and clip the first bolt to protect a ground fall, a few hard moves leads to a jug and a perfect 0.5. Continue up and trend right to pull the first roof, a few more cruxes remain.

If it feels hard for the grade you are probably right, felt more like 11c then 11b in my book. May look a little dirty, but it is clean where it counts.

Possible to reach the top anchor from either Saints or the top of Das Musak.

Protection

A 0.5 is mandatory to protect the moves to the first roof, as well as a #1 to protect the roof. Bring many finger sized pieces.

Doubles from green alien (0.3) to #1, maybe and extra green alien equivalent.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Sol Wertkin
Leavenworth, Washington
 
[Hide Comment] FWIW, I place a bomber slightly hidden #2 pulling out of the 1st bulge (after the start). Mar 2, 2015
[Hide Comment] FA, Michael Adams and Dan Lepska Apr 5, 2015
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
[Hide Comment] Alright Tom!

Just a month ago, you thought it impossible for you to lead, and then you go and lead it a month later.

Is this the power of practice on TR? Jun 5, 2016
michal
Everett WA
[Hide Comment] Yes it's been onsighted Jun 5, 2016
hummerchine
  5.11d R
[Hide Comment] Key pro hidden in horizontal...screw it up and die. Jun 6, 2016
Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
  5.11c/d PG13
[Hide Comment] I just want to add a couple more comments on this fine route.
1) After the initial bouldery start, I go left under the roof and pull over on highly polished Castle Rock holds.
2) Once you overcome the slick jugs, take a seat in the small alcove. Read the paper. Send a text. Take a nap. It's comfy in there.
3) The final crux over a small roof is committing and perplexing. There are sucker holds that will shut you down if you try to use them. May 31, 2018