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> I) Honeymooner's Area
Dead Ráibéad
5.12+ YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British PG13
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | Paul Nelson, Chris Whisenhunt, Craig Reger |
Page Views: | 1,679 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | camhead on Oct 1, 2014 |
Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
This is a direct finish to The Rabbit Almost Died. Despite it being a variation, this is actually the "plumb line," and it also connects into a very obvious fingercrack feature at the top of the wall. The line follows most of the crux (as well as all three bolts, which NRAC recently upgraded to half inch stainless, woo!) of The Rabbit to a frustratingly hard, reachy, right-traversing boulder problem on nipples and slimpers, with bomber gear just far enough below you to make the fall significant. At the end of the boulder problem, snatch a great jug with terrible feet, fire in a small stopper or purple tcu, and make a few more tenuous moves to gain the final 5.11 fingercrack.
All in all, Dead Ráibéad is a fun, slightly heady but safe power-endurance route that manages to go on completely natural gear after breaking off from the Rabbit.
Oh, and the name comes from the original Gaelic name of the Irish Street gang that was depicted in the movie "Gangs of New York," also known as the Dead Rabbits.
All in all, Dead Ráibéad is a fun, slightly heady but safe power-endurance route that manages to go on completely natural gear after breaking off from the Rabbit.
Oh, and the name comes from the original Gaelic name of the Irish Street gang that was depicted in the movie "Gangs of New York," also known as the Dead Rabbits.
Protection
Three bolts, tcu's and camalots up to .75 camalot. After getting the gear worked out, I used two 0 tcu's, one .3 camalot, one .5 camalot, and one .75 camalot. Stoppers and ballnuts would work well, too. No top anchor bolts, but it is very easy to set up a TR or rap in off of trees. Although I rapped and scrubbed this route on TR to see if it would go, all attempts at working out moves were made on lead (with a LOT of big falls onto a bomber .3 camalot), and it would be safe for the solid 5.12 trad leader to check out ground-up, unlike the more cryptic Color Blind (13a) next door).
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