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Routes in (4) Gold Wall

Afternoon Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Beyond the Glory S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bitterroot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chaos T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirty Jugs S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ganesh T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kung Fu S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Masterpiece Theatre S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Screaming for Change T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Siddhartha T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sweeping Beauty S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whine and Cheese S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Jon Stewart, Direct Line: Topher Dabrowski
Page Views: 823 total, 21/month
Shared By: Topher Dabrowski on Oct 1, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

This route has been retro bolted and now offers two options, a direct bolts only line or the original mixed route.

Located on the face between Bitterroot and Ganesh, this route starts up a shallow corner of broken rock and clips two bolts before reaching a big ledge. From the ledge climb up through a short right facing corner, on to the face and up to a small overhang/bulge. Ascend directly up the nose of the bulge on good holds to a ledge. Continue via edgy face climbing to the top anchors.


The original line moves left of the bulge and up easy steps to the next ledge, it requires a couple pieces of gear to 1". Continue via edgy face climbing to the top anchors. Shares anchors with Ganesh.

Protection

9 QDs

Optional gear to 1" for original line

Photos

Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
  5.10c
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
  5.10c
The ledge is narrow, so you wouldn't hit it if falling before the next bolt, and with the bolt below being on an overhang, your fall would be clean. I didn't feel any of the runouts were bad, or had any potential of a ledge fall. You could protect the runout with a small tcu or nut if you wanted to. Jun 24, 2015
Brunt Tornton   NH
 
the second (upper) one. Maybe I was missing something? I could only see one more bolt between where I was standing and the anchor (about ten feet off the ledge) and the last one was beneath the ledge. I ended up breaking left and finishing up kung fu. Jun 7, 2015
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
  5.10c
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
  5.10c
With the protection as it is now, there is no danger of ledge falls. While there are a few runouts, they are in steep and easier terrain. Jun 6, 2015
Brunt Tornton   NH
 
how hard is the climbing off the ledge? falling before the next clip would be pretty terrible Jun 6, 2015
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
  5.10c
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
  5.10c
This is an excellent climb, and every 5.10 climber at Ozone should try it. climbing is straight forward for the first 30', then it gets interesting, with moves you won't find anywhere else at Ozone. Pumpy sustained climbing at its best. Apr 30, 2015
Topher Dabrowski
  5.10d
Topher Dabrowski  
  5.10d
This route has been retro bolted as of 04.17.15 and is now a fun and safe lead at 5.10. The route description above has been modified to describe the original and direct options. Apr 17, 2015