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Routes in (4) Gold Wall

Afternoon Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Beyond the Glory S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bitterroot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chaos T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirty Jugs S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ganesh T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kung Fu S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Masterpiece Theatre S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Screaming for Change T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Siddhartha T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sweeping Beauty S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whine and Cheese T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Jon Stewart, Direct Line: Topher Dabrowski
Page Views: 983 total · 22/month
Shared By: Topher Dabrowski on Oct 1, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description [Suggest Change]

This route has been retro bolted and now offers two options, a direct bolts only line or the original mixed route.

Located on the face between Bitterroot and Ganesh, this route starts up a shallow corner of broken rock and clips two bolts before reaching a big ledge. From the ledge climb up through a short right facing corner, on to the face and up to a small overhang/bulge. Ascend directly up the nose of the bulge on good holds to a ledge. Continue via edgy face climbing to the top anchors.

The original line moves left of the bulge and up easy steps to the next ledge, it requires a couple pieces of gear to 1". Continue via edgy face climbing to the top anchors. Shares anchors with Ganesh.

Protection [Suggest Change]

9 QDs

Optional gear to 1" for original line

Photos

Topher Dabrowski
  5.10d
Topher Dabrowski  
  5.10d
This route has been retro bolted as of 04.17.15 and is now a fun and safe lead at 5.10. The route description above has been modified to describe the original and direct options. Apr 17, 2015
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
  5.10c
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
  5.10c
This is an excellent climb, and every 5.10 climber at Ozone should try it. climbing is straight forward for the first 30', then it gets interesting, with moves you won't find anywhere else at Ozone. Pumpy sustained climbing at its best. Apr 30, 2015
Brunt Tornton
NH-->OR
 
Brunt Tornton   NH-->OR
 
how hard is the climbing off the ledge? falling before the next clip would be pretty terrible Jun 6, 2015
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
  5.10c
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
  5.10c
With the protection as it is now, there is no danger of ledge falls. While there are a few runouts, they are in steep and easier terrain. Jun 6, 2015
Brunt Tornton
NH-->OR
 
Brunt Tornton   NH-->OR
 
the second (upper) one. Maybe I was missing something? I could only see one more bolt between where I was standing and the anchor (about ten feet off the ledge) and the last one was beneath the ledge. I ended up breaking left and finishing up kung fu. Jun 7, 2015
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
  5.10c
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
  5.10c
The ledge is narrow, so you wouldn't hit it if falling before the next bolt, and with the bolt below being on an overhang, your fall would be clean. I didn't feel any of the runouts were bad, or had any potential of a ledge fall. You could protect the runout with a small tcu or nut if you wanted to. Jun 24, 2015
T Banch
Portland, OR
T Banch   Portland, OR
Movement down low was fun and difficult, but I also got scared off to Kung Fu going for the bolt above the ledge. I guess moving left and up and then traversing back right to the bolt isn't too bad but it's definitely runout and was too scary for me. My partner fell above that bolt and came very close to hitting the ledge. Overall a fun climb but very heady and with (seemed like to me) ledge fall potential. May 29, 2018
dmPete
  5.10c/d R
dmPete  
  5.10c/d R
I was on this route for the first time a couple weeks ago. Thought the climbing itself was pretty damn great and unique for the crag.

BUT I’m in agreement with all the folks who thought the runouts on the top half were excessive. 30’+ whip potential with ledges below...not at all clear to me that the fall is clean and safe.

Seems like adding one or two bolts in the runs at the top would be a good way to keep the “sport” label on it without luring anyone unsuspecting (like I was) into R-rated territory.

Alternatively, listing it on the site as a mixed route and talking up the need for a couple mid/small cams for these sections would be just as effective. May 30, 2018
Topher Dabrowski
  5.10d
Topher Dabrowski  
  5.10d
With all the recent comments it looks like the route is living up to its name! :P May 31, 2018
Seth Wiggins
Portland, OR
Seth Wiggins   Portland, OR
Great middle of the climb - a sustained challenge protected by bolts. The start and the finish are the reason why there's so much dirt and moss. 5 days ago

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