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Routes in (4) Gold Wall

Afternoon Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Beyond the Glory S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bitterroot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chaos T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirty Jugs S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ganesh T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kung Fu S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Masterpiece Theatre S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Screaming for Change T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Siddhartha T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sweeping Beauty S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whine and Cheese T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 174 total · 4/month
Shared By: Micah Klesick on Oct 1, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

This route was originally rated "R" due to a large detached block 2/3 the way up the route, sitting in the back of a ledge. Hence the route was never done, and grew brush and accumulated dirt. I cleaned it with Topher and we tested the block out. After repeatedly jumping on it, and hitting and prying on it, I could not get it to budge. This DOES NOT mean its safe. So climb at your own risk. I however, don't feel it warrants the "R" rating from that block. Now that said, DON'T place gear under or on the side of the block. There's my disclaimer.
Now for the route. Climb up Dirty Jugs, but where you would go right onto the ledge (with the Sweeping Beauty Belay anchor), cut into the dihedral on the left of the upper half of Dirty Jugs. Lots of stemming, and plenty of holds. Shares anchors with Whine and Cheese (5.10d) on the left.

Protection

A standard rack to 2" should do the trick. Not a ton of gear placements, but nothing particularly crazy, and it is never run-out. Use a long runner on the last bolt of the Dirty Jugs start.

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