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Routes in Quagmire Area

Quagmire Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Canadian Compromise T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fungus Razor T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Id, The Wizard of T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Dan Tate,Barry Hagen, 11/65 FFA : Peter Croft, Tami Knight, 1979
Page Views: 357 total, 9/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Sep 30, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Access issues at the Lower Malamute. Details

Description

This would be a classic if not so close to railroad, and if it were clean.
I think it may also be 10a, not too strenuous, just techy.
The right facing corner left of cedar trees dividing it from the more obvious crack of Hand Jive.Intimidating looking, but don't let the dirty start scare you off. The gear is tricky and a few technical moves make it exciting. It was damp and mossy, so avoid after a rain.

Location

15 meters left of Hand Jive ( crack with the do not climb sign next to it) the Arete left of the corner has some bolts- Will Power. Pull up on Salal bushes to reach ledge with a bolt up left. We rapped back to the ground at the tracks with a 70 m. rope.

Protection

standard rack to 2". I used a tiny nut and cam right after the belay bolt,. There is a fixed pin near the rap anchor.
I keep seeing that a standard rack is .5 - #3 camalot, for me it is blue, green, yellow, red Alien the the .5 and up. and a set of nuts.

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