PRINT: Rock Climb Off the Wall, Smith Rock

Off the Wall

5.11d, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),

Avg: 3.4 from 32 votes
FA: Alan Collins
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (w) The Marsupials > Marsupial Wall > (a) Dreamland

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

Off the Wall features a compact crux followed by big overhanging moves on jugs. Start out on a jug left of the bolt line and climb through small crimps to get to the second bolt. True crux is after clipping the third bolt throwing to a jug, committing to the off the wall move. After the first anchor, continue up 2 more bolts following a seam to finish an even longer route. It doesn't add to the grade but it does add more fun 5.11 climbing.

If it is your first time out to the Marsupial Wall and you can climb 5.12, this is the line to make sure you get on. While the beginning is typical climbing for Smith Rocks, the overhang features jugs and big moves that will justify the long slog out. Closely placed bolts also make this a good lead for aspiring 5.12 climbers. Could be 5.11c or 5.11d.

Location

Left Side of the Marsupial Wall, 2nd most left route as of now.

Protection

5 bolts plus anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Image Topo

Hanging on some jugs

Starting the send train!

Matt Rielly managing to stay on Off the Wall

Matt 2nd Ascent

Chris Hatzai tries to avoid coming Off the Wall

Pulling the roof

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Micah Klesick
Charlotte, NC

Sounds like fun! Is the rock pretty clean? Oct 1, 2014

Alan Collins
Bend, OR

5.11c

The rock is amazing where its hard. The rock gets less desirable at above the last bolt on 5.9 climbing, but nothing that would detour anyone from the route. The start of vision is way more choosy than above the last bolt on this route. Nov 10, 2014

Daniel Jordan
Boulder, CO

5.11d

Sweet route! Wish it were a bit longer. Not sure about the grade! Pretty powerful moves off some pinch/undercling features low...to a good rest before tackling a steep finish. Somewhat ominous looking death block about 20ft up and left of anchors? Thanks for the routes Alan! Feb 12, 2017