Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Lower Cathedral Rock

76 Degrees in the Shade T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Beggar's Buttress T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bridalveil Falls East T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Counterparts S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Crack immediately right of Unnamed But Beautiful T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
East Buttress T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
End of The Line T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gash T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Geek For A Week S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Giblit S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Groom's Variation, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0
Gunsight T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
King and I S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
King for a Day S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kung Fu Panda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mac Daddy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mecca Lite S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Meccaphobia S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mechanical Advantage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Myth of Sessyphus, The T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Overhang Bypass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Overhang Overpass T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Peasant S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pilgrimage (New North Face) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Right from "76 Degrees in the Shade" T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scrubby Corner S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spectacle S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sub-Mission T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Survivor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Too Many Darts (Free Ascent) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unnamed N3 with chimney start T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unnamed but Beautiful T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Velvet Elvis S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 820 ft, 8 pitches
FA: Mark Powell and Warren Harding 8/1957
Page Views: 1,531 total · 35/month
Shared By: Adal Bermann on Sep 29, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15 Details

Description

Long route scales the wall to the left of the falls. Starts up easy scramble and quickly becomes more difficult with chimneys and long pitches. The crux is an exhausting 5.10c overhanging fist crack behind a flake on the pitch before last.

Climbing is not as clean as some other Yosemite routes and it felt much more difficult than the old rating suggests. Great experience however, with an amazing view of the falls and with no one competing for it, even during high season.

Location

Hike up to the pond at the base of Bridalveil Falls and cross over to the left. Go up the class 4 scramble to the ledge at the base of the climb. Do not walk up and to the left which leads to another route, but instead start climbing immediately above the lower part of the ledge. A bit higher above you can see the first chimeney, a 5.9.

Protection

Standard rack. Camalot 3s and 4s were very useful on the crux pitch. A few pitons and trees. No bolts.

Photos

Alexey
San Jose
 
Alexey   San Jose
 
FA Mark Powell and Warren Harding 8/1957
In 1964 Frank Sacherer and John Morton climbed the overhanging jamcrack to avoid the short aid section which is the Midget Chimney pitch.

This late 50th early 60th route had good clean and hard chimneys and hard moves around chock stones.
Route finding is easy if you follow the huge chimney system from bottom to top. Only start of first pitch is about 20 feet right from the chimney and than 100 feet up it merge with main chimney. First and last pitches not remarkable, but climbing in between is very good.
Midget Chimney (second to last pitch) is stelar overhanging fist crack. Clean and sustain for 100 feet. Would be 5.11***** Indian creek climb, and probably 10d/11- in Yosemite's if climbed in 70th. If your hands is very big- it can be a cruiser hand crack
For this pitch take 4#3 and 2#4 if you do not want to back-clean blue camalots. Oct 6, 2014
Nice Alexey! Did you do it this year? It has been on my list for some time. Oct 7, 2014
Adal Bermann
San Diego, CA
 
Adal Bermann   San Diego, CA
 
I went up it a week ago, very exhausting climb with some really fun sections. We ended rapping down in the dark, because the hike to Gunsack isn't that obvious. Oct 7, 2014

More About Bridalveil Falls East

Printer-Friendly