Type: Trad, 820 ft, 8 pitches
FA: Mark Powell and Warren Harding 8/1957
Page Views: 1,804 total · 34/month
Shared By: Adal Bermann on Sep 29, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Long route scales the wall to the left of the falls. Starts up easy scramble and quickly becomes more difficult with chimneys and long pitches. The crux is an exhausting 5.10c overhanging fist crack behind a flake on the pitch before last.

Climbing is not as clean as some other Yosemite routes and it felt much more difficult than the old rating suggests. Great experience however, with an amazing view of the falls and with no one competing for it, even during high season.

Location

Hike up to the pond at the base of Bridalveil Falls and cross over to the left. Go up the class 4 scramble to the ledge at the base of the climb. Do not walk up and to the left which leads to another route, but instead start climbing immediately above the lower part of the ledge. A bit higher above you can see the first chimeney, a 5.9.

Protection

Standard rack. Camalot 3s and 4s were very useful on the crux pitch. A few pitons and trees. No bolts.

Photos

Alexey Zelditch
San Jose
 
Alexey Zelditch   San Jose
 
FA Mark Powell and Warren Harding 8/1957
In 1964 Frank Sacherer and John Morton climbed the overhanging jamcrack to avoid the short aid section which is the Midget Chimney pitch.

This late 50th early 60th route had good clean and hard chimneys and hard moves around chock stones.
Route finding is easy if you follow the huge chimney system from bottom to top. Only start of first pitch is about 20 feet right from the chimney and than 100 feet up it merge with main chimney. First and last pitches not remarkable, but climbing in between is very good.
Midget Chimney (second to last pitch) is stelar overhanging fist crack. Clean and sustain for 100 feet. Would be 5.11***** Indian creek climb, and probably 10d/11- in Yosemite's if climbed in 70th. If your hands is very big- it can be a cruiser hand crack
For this pitch take 4#3 and 2#4 if you do not want to back-clean blue camalots. Oct 6, 2014
Nice Alexey! Did you do it this year? It has been on my list for some time. Oct 7, 2014
Adal Bermann
San Diego, CA
  5.10c
Adal Bermann   San Diego, CA
  5.10c
I went up it a week ago, very exhausting climb with some really fun sections. We ended rapping down in the dark, because the hike to Gunsack isn't that obvious. Oct 7, 2014