Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 93 total · 2/month
Shared By: Danger on Sep 28, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

Quite possibly the best at the grade.

A huge tube marks the start of this climb, the 2nd bolted line of the 5.10s on the black and yellowed Old Man Wall. Another, even bigger one is halfway up the route right before a crux.

Solid, sustained 5.10d climbing on good crimps and big holds at diagonal angles with less awesome feet force you to use clever positioning and body tension to gain upwards progress.

Resistant all the way to the anchors, one or two possibly loose jug-blocks mar this otherwise incredible line. While the climb is 99% solid, the 1% of slightly loose blocks mean the belayer is advised to wear a helmet and watch the climber at all times.

Location

2nd bolted line from the left of the grid bolted section at Old Man Wall

Protection

316 steel (2007)

Photos

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Nate Ball
Portland, OR
 
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
 
I did not find this climb to be loose at all. Great line, though probably not 10d if you follow the obvious line of least resistant. The bolts were obviously placed on rappel, and though most are fine, the clips through the crux are definitely the hardest part of redpointing this route. Aug 21, 2016