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Routes in The Dregs

Anti-Clique Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Indian Leg-Wrestling T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mongrel Wave T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Mr. Hamburger T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Time Lapse T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Two-Headed Boy T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: A. Whitmore, Z. Drobnik
Page Views: 115 total, 3/month
Shared By: Andrew M Whitmore on Sep 28, 2014
Admins: grk10vq

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Description

A unique (even for the Gally) route. Climb the bouldery slabs to the left of "Anti-Clique Crack" and beneath the horizontal roof. Place a small tcu behind a big pink ear or just climb up a few moves to multiple good horizontal gear placements. Follow steep features and good gear to the left of the roof. Two bolts protect a dynamic face crux. Gain a friction stance with the second bolt at your left hip. A friction traverse leads to the right above the lip of the roof and gains a hard to see 1/2" crack. Follow this moderate crack to the chains.

An excellent choice for a hot day, only sees a couple hours of sunlight in the morning. Great exposure and position with good views into the rest of the Gally. A nice hike too, under 60 minutes depending on fitness.

Location

Backside of the Dregs. Go all the way to the top of the southside of the main crag. The chains for "Indian Leg-Wrestling" are off to the west. Descend a faint trail through steep/thick lodgepole pine for 150'. Follow the toe of the rock buttress back to the south crossing some large gneiss slabs. "Time Lapse" is farthest south (left) starting about 30' left of "Anti-Clique Crack". Rappel.

Protection

1/4"-2". Two bolts. Quick-links and biners on top (as of 2014)

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