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Ultraviolet Ammunition

5.12b, Trad, 105 ft (32 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 10 votes
FA: J. Unema, B. McCord
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sycamore Canyon > Volunteer Canyo… > S Side > 2. E End Wall

Description

Ultraviolet Ammunition is the gentler variation to Death Dealer. After pulling the low crux on death dealer, a  horizontal crack leads right at around 60 feet. The horizontal ends at the base of another thin seam with square cut crimps and jugs. Follow this seam up, rejoining Death Dealer for the last few moves. 

Location

Begin as Death Dealer, traverse right, and stay in the seam between Death Dealer and Rapture.

Protection

The FA was done on all gear, however, like Death Dealer, much of the hard climbing is protected by marginal gear, so I added 3 additional bolts, for a total of 4 on this route. In addition to the bolts, bring a set of small to medium wires, offsets are useful, bring a single set of cams from #.4 C4 to #3, and a triple set of c3 000 to 0.

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Ultraviolet Ammunition Topo
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Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Darren Mabe
Parks, AZ
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] Brilliant route. I think the moves and aesthetically is better than DD. I am blown away these were both led before the bolts. Wow Oct 1, 2018
Chris Kalman
  5.12a/b
[Hide Comment] I have mixed feelings about this climb. It's super fun, but some enormo jugs and ledges right of the upper crack sort of take away from the sustained feeling one expects of a truly 4-star 5.12, I think.

Also, while certainly cryptic, I didn't think any of the upper stuff was particularly hard. If you do the moves right, it can't be harder than 5.11+, or at most 12-. The lower crux is a bit more in your face, pulling steep hard moves above tiny gear, and I could see maybe calling that part 12b.

As for the bolts, I definitely clipped them. And I suppose if they weren't there this thing would never get done. That said, I kind of think this would be a more fulfilling route if it were 100% natural. I mean, the gear is all there, right?

Anyway, thanks Blake and Joel for another great line. As of Nov 2019 this thing was in fine shape, while Death Dealer looked unclimbably dirty. Nov 11, 2019
Chris Kalman
  5.12a/b
[Hide Comment] I thought about just deleting my old comment, but decided to leave it so folks didn't think I was trying to cover my tracks. So here it is. For the record... I think I was probably wrong.

1.) 12b feels probably spot on for the grade for basalt routes in NAZ.
2.) It's pretty picky to give it anything other than 4 stars; what a beautiful route.
3.) There are a couple moves in the upper part which may be harder than 11+. IDK. Felt hard a couple days ago, but then again I was climbing without chalk. So... who knows. I guess take both my comments with a grain of salt. May 2, 2020