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North Ridge

Mod. Snow, Snow, Alpine, 2000 ft (606 m), Grade II,  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Sidney S. Mohler August 9 1903
Oregon > Oregon Volcanoes > Mt Jefferson

Description

The North Ridge is perhaps the route of choice for a party that does not want to deal with slog around to the Whitewater Glacier or the complexity of the North Shoulder finish to Jeff Park Glacier. However, this route is one that should be done only when snow covered as otherwise is it a scree slope.

From Jeff Park gain the ridge generally staying the east side of the ridge crest. Once the ridge steepens significantly, begin a leftward traverse under the steep conglomerated headwall. Depending on conditions, it may be possible to climb a steep chute that leads to the ridge crest. If not continue trending left around the ridge crest at which point it will be possible to traverse into the col between the ridge crest and the summit pinnacle.

Location

The North Ridge can be gained from a camp in Jeff Park. One can also gain the ridge from Jeff Park Glacier. However, this variation involves climbing some steep snow and alpine ice. See the Jeff Park Glacier topo photo.

Protection

Pickets, a few screws, and perhaps a nut or two. Using two tools is not unreasonable - especially if doing the variation from Jeff Park Glacier.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Coming around the finial traverse on the North Ridge to the col before the summit pinnacle. This final traverse is fairly steep. 1 July 2014
[Hide Photo] Coming around the finial traverse on the North Ridge to the col before the summit pinnacle. This final traverse is fairly steep. 1 July 2014
Climbing through the rock band up the variation between the Jeff Park Glacier and the North Ridge. The lower slopes of the North Ridge are in the background 1 July 2014
[Hide Photo] Climbing through the rock band up the variation between the Jeff Park Glacier and the North Ridge. The lower slopes of the North Ridge are in the background 1 July 2014
High on the North Ridge traversing under the ridge crest. The North Ridge and Jeff Park can be seen in the background.  1 July 2014
[Hide Photo] High on the North Ridge traversing under the ridge crest. The North Ridge and Jeff Park can be seen in the background. 1 July 2014