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Routes in Cedar River Crag

BLF T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fritzie's Honor T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hit Girl T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Peach Meat S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Riptide T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: 2000 Steve Adler & Mike Caruso 2014 Tom Rosecrans & Co.
Page Views: 232 total, 6/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Sep 26, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

Steve Adler and Mike Caruso top-roped this route in 2000, after finding out the crag's neighboring cliff (Sugarloaf) was off-limits. Sugarloaf gained public access in Spring 2014, and the surge of interest engendered by that event overflowed onto this small crag. A sizable crew began visiting, Tom Rosecrans among them. This route deserves the attention he gave it.
Stick-clip the starting bolt, then make a hard move to get situated on the ramp above the overhang. Head up and left into the dihedral, and let the game begin. Stem, jam, layback upward to a point where the angle eases momentarily. Continue up a few feet, toward a series overhangs stepping right up the steepening face - but don't go up them. Instead, step around the corner onto the face to the left, head up to a right-facing flake/corner and take it to its end, then move up and right on the slab to the anchor. The stepped overhangs are perhaps slightly harder than 5.9+.

Location

This is the prominent right-facing dihedral a short way up the right-rising ramp. The dihedral begins above a sharply-pointed head-height overhang; the route's starting point and probably its hardest move - though there are plenty more above.

Protection

Standard Adk. Rack plus extra QDs. Several bolts along the way, and an anchor shared with BLF .

Photos

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Jim Lawyer    
 
An interesting historical note: this route was cleaned in the 1990s by David Buzzelli, but he never returned to climb it. Dec 14, 2015