Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 85 ft|
|FA:||2000 Steve Adler & Mike Caruso 2014 Tom Rosecrans & Co.|
|Page Views:||232 total, 6/month|
|Shared By:||Jay Harrison on Sep 26, 2014|
DescriptionSteve Adler and Mike Caruso top-roped this route in 2000, after finding out the crag's neighboring cliff (Sugarloaf) was off-limits. Sugarloaf gained public access in Spring 2014, and the surge of interest engendered by that event overflowed onto this small crag. A sizable crew began visiting, Tom Rosecrans among them. This route deserves the attention he gave it.
Stick-clip the starting bolt, then make a hard move to get situated on the ramp above the overhang. Head up and left into the dihedral, and let the game begin. Stem, jam, layback upward to a point where the angle eases momentarily. Continue up a few feet, toward a series overhangs stepping right up the steepening face - but don't go up them. Instead, step around the corner onto the face to the left, head up to a right-facing flake/corner and take it to its end, then move up and right on the slab to the anchor. The stepped overhangs are perhaps slightly harder than 5.9+.
LocationThis is the prominent right-facing dihedral a short way up the right-rising ramp. The dihedral begins above a sharply-pointed head-height overhang; the route's starting point and probably its hardest move - though there are plenty more above.
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