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Routes in Acropolis

Babblin' Barnacles TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Easy Peasy S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Euthyphro S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ginger T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Half Century S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Little Goat S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Northern Platitudes S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Plus Tard S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schooled S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sting in the Tail S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Swamptart S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Taiya (AKA Kia) S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Untitled Mini Offwidth T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Untitled Offwidth TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Dave Benton?
Page Views: 82 total, 2/month
Shared By: Alex Weber on Sep 25, 2014
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Description

I officially love this climb. Overhung with great protection. Cruxes comes near the top where you have to manage several committing laybacks. The great thing about this climb is there is a no-hands rest half way up before the cruxes, and after each crux there is good protection to place.
Begins with some laybacking to a nice horizontal edge. From here head right to a really awesome jug. Place small gear here. Head up on slopey holds that are better when laybacked. First crux is making it to the next massive jug. Bad crimp and some fancy footwork will get you there. Mantel up to the no-hands rest. Catch your breath.
Next is the three cruxes. Head up and left a bit. I match to get through this section. Now you have to reach up and slot your hand in the left crack. This is a semi-jam and semi-layback. Right foot out left and reach WAAAY up. Slopey hold, but again, a layback will make this feel more secure. You can get a 0.75 BD cam in here.
Next is again a small crimp you can layback with a right foot out left. Again, reach WAAAY up to a shark fin, and another slopy hold above. Fist jam and then place another 0.75. Breath.
Final crux! Pinch the giant block and reach WAAAY UP (see a theme?). Another slopy hold, then out left by the anchors a good hold. You did it!!
My girlfriend can jam in this section. She's a magician.

Location

Between Taiya and Swamptart

Protection

Standard rack to 1" (0.75 C4 BD cam). Anchors at the top.
Bring doubles of the 0.75 cam for near the top. They come in really handy.
Also bring small cams (0.1 and 0.2 C4 BD cam).

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