Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Dave Benton?
Page Views: 129 total · 2/month
Shared By: Alex Weber on Sep 25, 2014
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You & This Route


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Description

I officially love this climb. Overhung with great protection. Cruxes comes near the top where you have to manage several committing laybacks. The great thing about this climb is there is a no-hands rest half way up before the cruxes, and after each crux there is good protection to place.
Begins with some laybacking to a nice horizontal edge. From here head right to a really awesome jug. Place small gear here. Head up on slopey holds that are better when laybacked. First crux is making it to the next massive jug. Bad crimp and some fancy footwork will get you there. Mantel up to the no-hands rest. Catch your breath.
Next is the three cruxes. Head up and left a bit. I match to get through this section. Now you have to reach up and slot your hand in the left crack. This is a semi-jam and semi-layback. Right foot out left and reach WAAAY up. Slopey hold, but again, a layback will make this feel more secure. You can get a 0.75 BD cam in here.
Next is again a small crimp you can layback with a right foot out left. Again, reach WAAAY up to a shark fin, and another slopy hold above. Fist jam and then place another 0.75. Breath.
Final crux! Pinch the giant block and reach WAAAY UP (see a theme?). Another slopy hold, then out left by the anchors a good hold. You did it!!
My girlfriend can jam in this section. She's a magician.

Location

Between Taiya and Swamptart

Protection

Standard rack to 1" (0.75 C4 BD cam). Anchors at the top.
Bring doubles of the 0.75 cam for near the top. They come in really handy.
Also bring small cams (0.1 and 0.2 C4 BD cam).

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