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Family Route

5.7, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2 from 8 votes
FA: Tad Hocking, Dane Scott. Fall 1977
California > Northeast Calif… > Susanville Area > Pigeon Cliff > 2. Central Wall Amphi…

Description

The Family Route starts in a small corner system just left of the bolted arete of Hawaiian Tropic and just right of a small block. Climb up steep hand and finger cracks in the corner to a small ledge below the big arete overhang of Hawaiian Tropic.  Follow a short splitter off hands crack which veers out right to a big ledge about 55ft up. Now climb up the wide offwidth in the corner ahead using the splitter hand crack on the right side just outside this offwidth. The hand crack turns the second half of this route from a difficult 5.10 chicken wing offwidth, into a cruiser, well protected and enjoyable climb. This route has excellent gear the whole way and is a good route to gain some gear placement skills for the newer climber.

There is a variation to the top called Black Sheep (5.10b) which follows the flaring and often dirty finger crack up the head wall left of the offwidth chimney.

Location

Left side of amphitheater, to the right of R.V.C.

Protection

Gear to 3", bolted anchor.

Anchor updated with one Glue-in and chains added by ASCA 11/2022.

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T Hocking
Redding CA.
  5.8
[Hide Comment] See Paul Bernards "Rock Climbs of N.E. California" guidebook for history and beta. Sep 24, 2014